Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

I bought a pajero for cheap

My New Pajero

Then figured its got a rod knock. More than likely a gudgeon pin

Rod knock causes

So the tear down has begun

Will strip down till just the block and heads are left and then take it out and send it in for a slightly bigger bore, head skim and new pistons, bearings and head refresh.

Any pointers to look out for will be greatly appreciated as I am not familiar with these engines - usually work on my VW 8 valve engine.

PICS



Belts hoses fan and radiator. Radiator will get a 3 row recore.




Cam belt looks pretty good surprisingly


NOTE TO SELF : Replace ALL water hoses






Got to know where the belts go. haha




got the manifolds disconnected from the downpipes. It looks like its just the starter, tranny and engine mountings left before I can do the pull.





















progress











ready to be shipped out to the workshop.









Intake manifold plenum close up

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Machine shop still hasn't touched the motor. Probably only towards the end of the month. Meantime I'm just slowly cleaning some stuff.

Got the fuel rail and intake plenum sorted.





I am waiting for my engine to get back from the rebuilders

In the meantime I'm tackling electrics and at the moment I want to get the 4x4 lights in the dash to work.

The rear wheels light ( green ) is not working but I traced that to a blown bulb.

The vacuum operated front diff system works

The only thing now is to get all 4 green lights to light up when I select either 4H, 4HLc, or 4LLc

I have followed the manual I got from SimonB ( thanks again )

and here are my results






4ePajero has given me a nice pic. I will further investigate the switches and post my results here. Watch this space.

This is a 4E sickness - yes? Tinkering where nothing has broken - yet!

Like father like son - Great rebuild. I am awaiting the progress with anticipation and thanks for the sharing.

CATS

you know the story

It starts with a knock ( which is the case this time ) so lets open her up and fix the knock and then....

while I'm in there I might as well do the rings

then I might as well do a rebore
then I might as well do the bearings and seals
then I might as well do the clutch and TO bearing
then I might as well do the slave cylinder
then I might as well change the fluids
then I might as well do blah blah blah ........ and on it goes

before you know it you spend as much as what you paid for it but then at least

you know the vehicle inside out
you are confident to take it far away from civilisation
you can fix it on the side of the road
SATISFACTION is incredible!

.... and yes pappa 4e is to blame - without him I would never have the oppurtunity, knowledge, skills or brains to tackle such a project. ( Thanks dad! )

These are my findings

NOTE :
I have not commented on the rear wheel green lights as
1. My bulb is blown
2. They should be permanently on with the ignition so they never change





First picture courtesy of 4ePajero

Hence my trouble is obviously with number 5

Hi Guys,

Amasing detail, thanks for sharing all of this. Gives good insite to other systems.

You must have lots of patients.

Wilfred

Success.

My lights are working the way they should except for the rear wheels (of which I presume the bulb is blown)



The rear wheels bulb I'll check out this week and replace or re-wire as necessary.

The dash is back in but I realised that only one speaker is wired. ( That is gonna be another headache chasing cables )

For future reference

I managed to fix my number 5 switch by turning the washer around as the previous person tightened it so tight that it deformed the washer slightly

NOTES on number 5 switch

* It is a pin type switch
* at rest position = no continuity between thread and wire
* between 1mm - 4mm pin pressed into switch = continuity between thread and wire
* pressed in further than 4mm = no continuity between thread and wire

Thus the washer thickness is of extreme importance

NB : Number 1 switch is a ball switch



transfer case picture courtesy of 4ePajero



don't mind my MS paint skills

Pikanini it seems as if you have learned your lessons well. The time spent handing tools taught you well. A word of advice, when the time comes to swing the starter unplug your coil and let her turn without spark to get the oil through the channels because the way you are handling this project she is going to fire up on the first turn. Great job

Thanks

It is on already on a piece of paper in big red print to check the oil and filter before the start up

I plan to ( remove rocker covers ) pour oil over the cams and spray Q20 down the spark plug holes before fire up. She will take some time to fire as the fuel rail needs to prime as well.

I will definitely take video of the first start as it will be my first re-start ever. Hopefully not the last - I smell a vr6 in the jetta for the future

It might be worth checking the hydr. lifters as well while you`r at it. When I had my 3L overhauled we had 3 lifters rattling and had to replace.