Companion shaft popped, this time, the other one, was driving on tar, not towing, not to laden.
Guess I am going to have to get the fix from the agents.
I have read there are engineers in JHB who can sort this out, does anyone know if there are any in CPT?
Thanks
Craig
Hi CD,....The pulling out of the flange from the diff is not a frequent occurrence on Pajeros (before the 2007 Common rail injection engine) however, it seems to happen to heavily loaded or older ones which allows the suspension to bottom & the geometry of the rear suspension design then pulls the flange out off the diff & seal which then allows the oil to run out , and if caught quickly enough & you stop , you can save the diff by undoing the sideshaft & tap the flange back in & internal lock ring will click back into its groove.
There is a modified flange available from the agents which is about 1.2 mm ? ( my memory not that good ) thicker , and I had them installed on my previous 2006 LWB even though I had not had a problem .
To prevent your Pajero sagging due to loading or driving offroad, you can either fit after market rear springs ( OME which raise the rear by 50 mm ) or Air bags or both or have the thicker Flanges fitted ?
If you want to know more your are welcome to call me ....
Duncan 072 355 9300
There is a modified flange available from the agents which is about 1.2 mm ? ( my memory not that good ) thicker , and I had them installed on my previous 2006 LWB even though I had not had a problem .
To prevent your Pajero sagging due to loading or driving offroad, you can either fit after market rear springs ( OME which raise the rear by 50 mm ) or Air bags or both or have the thicker Flanges fitted ?
If you want to know more your are welcome to call me ....
Duncan 072 355 9300
Hi Duncan
I have since had the "upgraded" half shaft fitted, so touch wood, wont happen again. The problem according to MM is that the C clip is too small and yes, few vehicles have the problem although this is a known problem. I spoke to 4 different agents all of them aware of the issue, although only 1 recommended a repair, all the others simply said replace. Either way I hope I don't have this problem again, thinking back, I now realize when the shaft popped, nearly caused me to loose control, still managed to travel some distance at freeway speed (120kp/h) with no damage to the diff.
You rekon a lift kit will help prevent future problems? Then I can justify the purchase to the other half!! hehe!
Thanks
Craig
I have since had the "upgraded" half shaft fitted, so touch wood, wont happen again. The problem according to MM is that the C clip is too small and yes, few vehicles have the problem although this is a known problem. I spoke to 4 different agents all of them aware of the issue, although only 1 recommended a repair, all the others simply said replace. Either way I hope I don't have this problem again, thinking back, I now realize when the shaft popped, nearly caused me to loose control, still managed to travel some distance at freeway speed (120kp/h) with no damage to the diff.
You rekon a lift kit will help prevent future problems? Then I can justify the purchase to the other half!! hehe!
Thanks
Craig
Hi All,
I had the same issue with my 3.8 SWB. After much research, I came to the same conclusion. The problem is that most workshops replace the clips. This works for a limited time. I took my Car to Freek at MITSPRO, who explained the design error to me. Some models were fitted with a thinner clip, resulting in faster wear, especially while towing.
Freek had both my drive shafts removed, machined the slots where the circlip fits in slightly larger/wider,and fitted a thicker circlip. This was done in one day, at a cost of approx R 1200.00. I have been towing, offroading and drive a farm road on a daily basis, with no further complications.
Hope this will help?
Willieb
I had the same issue with my 3.8 SWB. After much research, I came to the same conclusion. The problem is that most workshops replace the clips. This works for a limited time. I took my Car to Freek at MITSPRO, who explained the design error to me. Some models were fitted with a thinner clip, resulting in faster wear, especially while towing.
Freek had both my drive shafts removed, machined the slots where the circlip fits in slightly larger/wider,and fitted a thicker circlip. This was done in one day, at a cost of approx R 1200.00. I have been towing, offroading and drive a farm road on a daily basis, with no further complications.
Hope this will help?
Willieb
Hey guys, Had the same problem myself. I have fixed it now. This is how.
1. Remove the bolts that secure the driveshaft to the flange
2. Use a crow bar to lever the flanges out (if you jack up the back end of the Paj you wont even need to drain the diff oil).
3. Buy the new bigger modified clips from Mitsubishi there around 20 bucks each part number MR410469 (quote this number, it is only available to the dealer on the workshop bulletin and the parts department usually dont know about it).
4. Get an engineer to make the circlip grooves a little bigger (my guy didnt even charge me it was so quick and easy).
5. Fit the new circlips into the grooves.
6. Put the flanges back with a light tap and reassemble the driveshafts
Its a really easy job and takes about an hours labour if that. Thanks to the engineer it cost me 40 bucks on parts.
Wilddog.
1. Remove the bolts that secure the driveshaft to the flange
2. Use a crow bar to lever the flanges out (if you jack up the back end of the Paj you wont even need to drain the diff oil).
3. Buy the new bigger modified clips from Mitsubishi there around 20 bucks each part number MR410469 (quote this number, it is only available to the dealer on the workshop bulletin and the parts department usually dont know about it).
4. Get an engineer to make the circlip grooves a little bigger (my guy didnt even charge me it was so quick and easy).
5. Fit the new circlips into the grooves.
6. Put the flanges back with a light tap and reassemble the driveshafts
Its a really easy job and takes about an hours labour if that. Thanks to the engineer it cost me 40 bucks on parts.
Wilddog.
HI Guys
The dreaded companion shaft pull-out happened to me on my way to a hunt in Willowmore, about 200km into a 1400km round trip with 5(100kg+)mates and a big 1.5ton trailer.
First time I simply popped the shaft back in by hand, but unfortunately it got progressively worse the further into the journey we went. I topped up the diff oil in Uniondale and it only took about 200ml of oil. On the way home the other shaft also started popping out and really started pouring out oil. Had to stop every 100km or so to re-seat the shafts and refill with GL5 oil found at shell garage with and energade bottle. Used about 2.5 - 3 liters on the way home. Unloaded my mates in hermanus and drove another 140km home with out any drama of the shafts pulling out. Seem the load was definitely the problem.
After doing some online research:
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... hp?t=29994
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... php?t=6657
There seems to be conflicting/confusing information on the net, there was a change in Australia in Oct' 2005 to fitting the upgraded shaft with had a thicker circlip (2.3mm vs. 1.9mm) and thinner shaft of (34mm vs. 38mm)? Not sure about South Africa, but some say one must simply refit the circlip, other say machining the part to accept the thicker circlip (part no??) and other say replace the whole shaft assembly...
I phoned Mitsubishi Paarden Island to find out if my Pajero came out with the 'upgraded' companion shafts or the older problematic ones, and they couldn't tell me. They only picked up one part number for the companion shaft and circlip on the system (3715A285), and when I queried the MR410469 as quoted by wildog above, they said that is an obsolete number and part. They could also not tell me if my current shaft has the thicker (2.3mm) circlip or if the new shaft has it too, or if the new oil seal with fit my old shaft if I only replaced the circlip...
Any one with some advise who has gone through the same issues as me?
Obviously to only change the circlip and oil seals is first prize - R80 for 4 circlips and R193 per seal vs R 866.40 per complete companion shaft excl seals, but I don't know if it would solve the problem.
The dreaded companion shaft pull-out happened to me on my way to a hunt in Willowmore, about 200km into a 1400km round trip with 5(100kg+)mates and a big 1.5ton trailer.
First time I simply popped the shaft back in by hand, but unfortunately it got progressively worse the further into the journey we went. I topped up the diff oil in Uniondale and it only took about 200ml of oil. On the way home the other shaft also started popping out and really started pouring out oil. Had to stop every 100km or so to re-seat the shafts and refill with GL5 oil found at shell garage with and energade bottle. Used about 2.5 - 3 liters on the way home. Unloaded my mates in hermanus and drove another 140km home with out any drama of the shafts pulling out. Seem the load was definitely the problem.
After doing some online research:
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... hp?t=29994
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... php?t=6657
There seems to be conflicting/confusing information on the net, there was a change in Australia in Oct' 2005 to fitting the upgraded shaft with had a thicker circlip (2.3mm vs. 1.9mm) and thinner shaft of (34mm vs. 38mm)? Not sure about South Africa, but some say one must simply refit the circlip, other say machining the part to accept the thicker circlip (part no??) and other say replace the whole shaft assembly...
I phoned Mitsubishi Paarden Island to find out if my Pajero came out with the 'upgraded' companion shafts or the older problematic ones, and they couldn't tell me. They only picked up one part number for the companion shaft and circlip on the system (3715A285), and when I queried the MR410469 as quoted by wildog above, they said that is an obsolete number and part. They could also not tell me if my current shaft has the thicker (2.3mm) circlip or if the new shaft has it too, or if the new oil seal with fit my old shaft if I only replaced the circlip...
Any one with some advise who has gone through the same issues as me?
Obviously to only change the circlip and oil seals is first prize - R80 for 4 circlips and R193 per seal vs R 866.40 per complete companion shaft excl seals, but I don't know if it would solve the problem.
Nicholas Gibson
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
Eish Nick!
You are becoming quite a knowledgeable Pajero gen3 owner with all your experiences!!
You will see I also posted on one of the links that you gave. From my discussion with Freek at Mitspro here in Centurion the old shaft can be modified to take the thicker new circlip. This was some time ago though. IIRC the new clip is thicker as well, which basically require the shaft to have a bigger groove.
I had the shafts on my old gen 3 replaced with the later ones but never actually saw the difference between the old and new. This was still done under maintenance plan so don't have the old shafts either. Never had similar hassles in the probably 200000kms since fitment, so they obviously sorted out the problem. The other question is, if it lasted until now, maybe just a fresh set of circlips will do the job for the next 150000 or so kms? But somehow I think Mitsu would probably not have redesigned the shaft if it was just a "pap" circlip that was the cause and remedy.
Maybe give Freek a call up here in Gauteng.
CATS
You are becoming quite a knowledgeable Pajero gen3 owner with all your experiences!!
You will see I also posted on one of the links that you gave. From my discussion with Freek at Mitspro here in Centurion the old shaft can be modified to take the thicker new circlip. This was some time ago though. IIRC the new clip is thicker as well, which basically require the shaft to have a bigger groove.
I had the shafts on my old gen 3 replaced with the later ones but never actually saw the difference between the old and new. This was still done under maintenance plan so don't have the old shafts either. Never had similar hassles in the probably 200000kms since fitment, so they obviously sorted out the problem. The other question is, if it lasted until now, maybe just a fresh set of circlips will do the job for the next 150000 or so kms? But somehow I think Mitsu would probably not have redesigned the shaft if it was just a "pap" circlip that was the cause and remedy.
Maybe give Freek a call up here in Gauteng.
CATS
2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS (Gen4) - Casper (Starting to grow on me)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
OK, I will post all the inforamtion I have gleaned here for posterity in case some of the link don't work in a few years time.
Issue:
Companion shafts pull out of rear diff when loaded or towing.
Look like this:
Probable cause:
Bumping the suspension through to bump-stops when heavily loaded and/or towing causes the shaft to move out of the diff about 10-15mm due to a sub-spec circlip used in the factory, thus causing it to leak varying amounts of oil depending on how far out it has moved out of the diff. It cannot fall out completely due to the length of the drive shaft attached to the wheel hubs keeping it in place.
Rememdy:
Short term, ie. get you home:
Get a lever or rubber hammer and push the shaft back into the diff until it clicks in place with the spring clip, I could do mine by hand alone. Check diff oil level (GL5 spec) on the side filler plug with a 24mm spanner/socket and top up if necessary, you can even use engine oil in an emergency to get you to a garage to fix- NB USE AT OWN RISK. NB. Do not let the diff run dry. Try to remove as much of the load from the rear of the vehicle as practically possible, and check on the diff REGULARLY until you are safely home or at a workshop.
Long term - permanent fix:
1. Have the whole companion shaft replaced with the upgraded unit from Mitsubishi with new oil seal & up-rated circlip. When the shaft pulls out the splines can damage the oil seal as well.
2. Have your companion shaft re-machined to accept the larger & stiffer circlip and re-installed. (I am still looking for the part number for the larger circlip ?? - mitsubishi cannot help me).
How to check which shaft you have fitted - quoted from various forums:
****
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... 067&page=2
Measure the diameter across the flange surface of your existing shafts.
Item:
Companion shaft flange outside diameter...OLD...182 mm...CURRENT...170 mm
Drive shaft outside diameter......................OLD....34 mm....CURRENT.....32 mm
They stopped fitting the design fault shafts 10/05
****
The old 182 / 34 shafts were fitted to Pajero's with DiD engines that have a manual gearbox up until early 2003 according to the hotfix. In this case, the whole shaft needs to be replaced to be able to fit the updated companion shafts.
If you have a Paj built after OCT05, you are safe.
Between early 03 and OCT05, you have the newer style 170 / 32 driveshaft, with the old spec companion shaft.
****
http://caravanersforum.com/viewtopic.ph ... 549#p54699
The problem of the rear axle companion shaft becoming loose resulting in oil leakage is a problem that can affect NM-NP Pajeros manufactured before 20/10/2005.
This is a known problem by Mitsubishi and is covered in their Hotline Fix document No NM27-002 Dated 11 April 2006.
Mitsubishi claim the companion shafts become loose because of unusual external pressure applied during high speed driving. But commonly affect Pajeros towing without any suspension lift (as in the case of mine).
The fix requires the replacement of the companion shafts, which have the snap ring diameter increased from 2.00mm to 2.3mm and the snap ring groove in the companion shaft increased accordingly.
Obviously the larger snap rings cannot be fitted to the existing shafts.
Pajeros manufactured after 20.10.2005 have the modified companion shafts fitted as standard.
To my knowledge Mitsubishi only replace those companion shafts that have become loose, however it may be worth investigating if existing companion shafts could be replaced under the extended 5-year warranty as a preventive measure.
ps. I will keep adding to this document as I find more information.
Issue:
Companion shafts pull out of rear diff when loaded or towing.
Look like this:
Bumping the suspension through to bump-stops when heavily loaded and/or towing causes the shaft to move out of the diff about 10-15mm due to a sub-spec circlip used in the factory, thus causing it to leak varying amounts of oil depending on how far out it has moved out of the diff. It cannot fall out completely due to the length of the drive shaft attached to the wheel hubs keeping it in place.
Rememdy:
Short term, ie. get you home:
Get a lever or rubber hammer and push the shaft back into the diff until it clicks in place with the spring clip, I could do mine by hand alone. Check diff oil level (GL5 spec) on the side filler plug with a 24mm spanner/socket and top up if necessary, you can even use engine oil in an emergency to get you to a garage to fix- NB USE AT OWN RISK. NB. Do not let the diff run dry. Try to remove as much of the load from the rear of the vehicle as practically possible, and check on the diff REGULARLY until you are safely home or at a workshop.
Long term - permanent fix:
1. Have the whole companion shaft replaced with the upgraded unit from Mitsubishi with new oil seal & up-rated circlip. When the shaft pulls out the splines can damage the oil seal as well.
2. Have your companion shaft re-machined to accept the larger & stiffer circlip and re-installed. (I am still looking for the part number for the larger circlip ?? - mitsubishi cannot help me).
How to check which shaft you have fitted - quoted from various forums:
****
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... 067&page=2
Measure the diameter across the flange surface of your existing shafts.
Item:
Companion shaft flange outside diameter...OLD...182 mm...CURRENT...170 mm
Drive shaft outside diameter......................OLD....34 mm....CURRENT.....32 mm
They stopped fitting the design fault shafts 10/05
****
The old 182 / 34 shafts were fitted to Pajero's with DiD engines that have a manual gearbox up until early 2003 according to the hotfix. In this case, the whole shaft needs to be replaced to be able to fit the updated companion shafts.
If you have a Paj built after OCT05, you are safe.
Between early 03 and OCT05, you have the newer style 170 / 32 driveshaft, with the old spec companion shaft.
****
http://caravanersforum.com/viewtopic.ph ... 549#p54699
The problem of the rear axle companion shaft becoming loose resulting in oil leakage is a problem that can affect NM-NP Pajeros manufactured before 20/10/2005.
This is a known problem by Mitsubishi and is covered in their Hotline Fix document No NM27-002 Dated 11 April 2006.
Mitsubishi claim the companion shafts become loose because of unusual external pressure applied during high speed driving. But commonly affect Pajeros towing without any suspension lift (as in the case of mine).
The fix requires the replacement of the companion shafts, which have the snap ring diameter increased from 2.00mm to 2.3mm and the snap ring groove in the companion shaft increased accordingly.
Obviously the larger snap rings cannot be fitted to the existing shafts.
Pajeros manufactured after 20.10.2005 have the modified companion shafts fitted as standard.
To my knowledge Mitsubishi only replace those companion shafts that have become loose, however it may be worth investigating if existing companion shafts could be replaced under the extended 5-year warranty as a preventive measure.
ps. I will keep adding to this document as I find more information.
Attachments:
GR00001400-27.pdf- (2.16 MiB) Downloaded 173 times
Nicholas Gibson
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
Thanks CatsCATS wrote:Eish Nick!
You are becoming quite a knowledgeable Pajero gen3 owner with all your experiences!!
You will see I also posted on one of the links that you gave. From my discussion with Freek at Mitspro here in Centurion the old shaft can be modified to take the thicker new circlip. This was some time ago though. IIRC the new clip is thicker as well, which basically require the shaft to have a bigger groove.
I had the shafts on my old gen 3 replaced with the later ones but never actually saw the difference between the old and new. This was still done under maintenance plan so don't have the old shafts either. Never had similar hassles in the probably 200000kms since fitment, so they obviously sorted out the problem. The other question is, if it lasted until now, maybe just a fresh set of circlips will do the job for the next 150000 or so kms? But somehow I think Mitsu would probably not have redesigned the shaft if it was just a "pap" circlip that was the cause and remedy.
Maybe give Freek a call up here in Gauteng.
CATS
Just when all seem fine with my van for a month or two she seems to throw me a curve ball...
I have just phoned Mitsubishi again and spoken to the workshop foreman and he said to replace the companion shafts, and they have just got another consignment in stock this morning so no waiting. Also add to the fact that the loose cir-clips are only available in 21 working days EX Japan (@ R80.00 for 4 - Thanks Imperial!), I am going away to Richmond in two weeks time and don't want to risk being stranded.
I also don't know of any workshop here in Cape town with relevant experience and tools to do the removal, machining and refit of the shafts with upgraded clip I would rather just replace the whole shabang with the new parts. For me to take a day to remove the the shafts, take them to an engineering shop, machine them and refit will cost me more then the approx R2.5k for new parts.
We need a Mitspro CPT branch here
Nicholas Gibson
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
Here is a very good step by step write up on how to do the companion shaft replacement from another forum.
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... php?t=6657
I have also printed it to PDF for prosperity - Thanks to the Pajero club of vicotria!
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... php?t=6657
I have also printed it to PDF for prosperity - Thanks to the Pajero club of vicotria!
- Replacing companion shaf...pdf
- (1.13 MiB) Downloaded 187 times
Nicholas Gibson
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen