Hi everyone, for those that do not want to pay the crazy stealer prices.
Front part nr = FDB1698
Rear part nr = D3073
You can get it from Midas / Autozone. Just shop around. I got a set of rear pads (Asimco) for R 200,17 from Nascar in Waverley. The pads come recomended by a 4x4community member.
Front pads should cost you at most R 480,00 set (Ferodo)Stealers = R 806,23
Front pads should cost you at most R 480,00 set (Ferodo)Stealers = R 806,23
OK, so I change the rear brakepads. Right side no sweat, 15min and its done. Leftside Sliding pin breaks of just behind the thread after a bit of gentile persuation 
The "pin" section rusted securely into the shaft as the little minute rubber gromet did a dissapearing trick allowing water to enter the shaft. No problem lets just smack the remaing part of the pin out with a punch and 5pd hammer. No go, it won't budge. Ended up removing the section of the caliper and off to engineering shop. In the meanwile phone the stealers to get a new pin. OH' no sorry sir no stock in SA we have to order "EISH" will take about 3 weeks and cost about R200 
Then I remember the rear brakes same as LC 4.5 VX/G 100 98-05
Off to Toyota stealer, pin cost R69 and will be ther in 2days (Paj now on tresol for 4days, riding with bike with dark clowds looming in southwest)Got to Toyota yesterday, wrong pin, will have to re order
Today drove from one scrapyard to another, everyone whants to sell me complete caliper for about R1000. Ended up at Tokina LDV spares, gave me the pin & rubber gromet for R25 
just finished with job & lots of copperpaste to prevent future rust. Paj on the road again..
Sliding pin breaks of just behind the thread after a bit of gentile persuation The "pin" section rusted securely into the shaft as the little minute rubber gromet did a dissapearing trick allowing water to enter the shaft. No problem lets just smack the remaing part of the pin out with a punch and 5pd hammer. No go, it won't budge. Ended up removing the section of the caliper and off to engineering shop. In the meanwile phone the stealers to get a new pin. OH' no sorry sir no stock in SA we have to order "EISH" will take about 3 weeks and cost about R200 Then I remember the rear brakes same as LC 4.5 VX/G 100 98-05
Off to Toyota stealer, pin cost R69 and will be ther in 2days (Paj now on tresol for 4days, riding with bike with dark clowds looming in southwest)Got to Toyota yesterday, wrong pin, will have to re order
Today drove from one scrapyard to another, everyone whants to sell me complete caliper for about R1000. Ended up at Tokina LDV spares, gave me the pin & rubber gromet for R25 just finished with job & lots of copperpaste to prevent future rust. Paj on the road again..
Eish. Making me worry now! One of those rubber grommets on my front caliper is also finished, so use copper slip to prevent rust, but can't really keep this up forever and really not looking forward to drilling out rusted pins like you had to.
Note to self! Order those pins and grommets for next service and just do it, otherwise a small job can end up costly and time consuming.
CATS
Sent from my green robot device using Tapatalk
Note to self! Order those pins and grommets for next service and just do it, otherwise a small job can end up costly and time consuming.
CATS
Sent from my green robot device using Tapatalk
2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS (Gen4) - Casper (Starting to grow on me)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
Gents,
For what its worth using copperease on the sliding pins can actually be detremental to the sliding pin rubber bush. Copperease is an anti sieze product and it also reacts with rubber based products causing them to breakdown after a while. I know because i had the same problem!. I thought i was doing the right thing is covering with copperease but the stuff "sets" after a while and the pin looses all lubrication plus the seal perished. You are best using a Red Rubber Grease in the sliders, its waterproof and will not effect the rubber bush on the end, just cover the pin in the gresae, slider works fine and never any further issues since i stripped all mine out.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
For what its worth using copperease on the sliding pins can actually be detremental to the sliding pin rubber bush. Copperease is an anti sieze product and it also reacts with rubber based products causing them to breakdown after a while. I know because i had the same problem!. I thought i was doing the right thing is covering with copperease but the stuff "sets" after a while and the pin looses all lubrication plus the seal perished. You are best using a Red Rubber Grease in the sliders, its waterproof and will not effect the rubber bush on the end, just cover the pin in the gresae, slider works fine and never any further issues since i stripped all mine out.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Hi TTR, my rubbers are fine Will replace the copperslip with the red stuff. Herewith a pic of the grommet that went AWOL, and place where it goes on caliper
Will replace the copperslip with the red stuff. Herewith a pic of the grommet that went AWOL, and place where it goes on caliper
Allegro,
No worries, glad you found it useful, well worth replacing coppeslip in my opinion, the red rubber grease works far better in the sliders pins.
cheers
No worries, glad you found it useful, well worth replacing coppeslip in my opinion, the red rubber grease works far better in the sliders pins.
cheers
Hi guys,
I hope that one of you can help me.
I have an intermittent "clunk" sound from my left rear brake, espicially the first time I brake after I change direction (Drive/Reverse).
Upon inspection I realised that on the slider(as posted in photo above), the lower slider bolt has got some play on it, not sideways caliper centering play, but up and down play.
Does this mean that the internals of the slider is worn out, or is the pin section of the slider bolt worn away?
Does anyone have the part number for the slider?
I was not aware that the slider bolts should be lubricated, and I did not know that the slider has rubber internals. This while I have a bottle of red rubber grease in the garage.
I hope that one of you can help me.
I have an intermittent "clunk" sound from my left rear brake, espicially the first time I brake after I change direction (Drive/Reverse).
Upon inspection I realised that on the slider(as posted in photo above), the lower slider bolt has got some play on it, not sideways caliper centering play, but up and down play.
Does this mean that the internals of the slider is worn out, or is the pin section of the slider bolt worn away?
Does anyone have the part number for the slider?
I was not aware that the slider bolts should be lubricated, and I did not know that the slider has rubber internals. This while I have a bottle of red rubber grease in the garage.
Stephan,
Hi, without a strip down of your brake its hard to tell what the problem could be. If you have not had the slider pins out or greased up then they could have worn or corroded. The slider acts as a "float" and allows the caliper to move horizontally whist attched to the housing.
If i were you i would strip down the brakes and see what you find after romoving both the top and bottom slider bolts.
I suspect it will become obvious once you see the components apart as to what has failed.
From memeory the top slider bolt has no rubber end, the bottom one does.
If you find thta this has failed either new part (sorry no number but Milners Off Road in the UK do them mail order) or full re grease using red rubber grease on the sliders and then check the rest and carry out at lease a re lube on all the slider pins.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Hi, without a strip down of your brake its hard to tell what the problem could be. If you have not had the slider pins out or greased up then they could have worn or corroded. The slider acts as a "float" and allows the caliper to move horizontally whist attched to the housing.
If i were you i would strip down the brakes and see what you find after romoving both the top and bottom slider bolts.
I suspect it will become obvious once you see the components apart as to what has failed.
From memeory the top slider bolt has no rubber end, the bottom one does.
If you find thta this has failed either new part (sorry no number but Milners Off Road in the UK do them mail order) or full re grease using red rubber grease on the sliders and then check the rest and carry out at lease a re lube on all the slider pins.
Hope this helps.
Cheers