Hi,
On my Gen3 LWB, some help on the handbrake please.
I dont have automated garage doors at home and my garage is on the street, well about 6meters from it, the short drive-way upto the garage is a bit steep, more than normal, so the pajero needs to hang on the handbrake while i open the garage door.
Now this is the problem:
It takes 7-8 clicks then the lever is nice-and-tight, but the handbrake can still not hold the pajero in one place.
On level ground 5 clicks work fine, on a decline with the nose down and 5 clicks it works fine, but incline nose up she wants to run backwards.
Also, the handbrake was ajusted some time ago but it only took 2, or 3 uses to be back to the 8-click scenario.
Currently have to put it in 'Park' together with the handbrake but I dont like this at all, have also started parking paralel to the road but this is a slep.
Any ideas to solve this and get proper handbrake action on the up-hill side ?
Why do'nt you like it?NeilTruter wrote: Currently have to put it in 'Park' together with the handbrake but I dont like this at all,
Do you mean you want to leave it in Drive, pull up the handbrake and get out? 
Pierre-Andre
2001 Pajero 3.5 GLS LWB
2001 Colt 3000i 4x4 D/C (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.5 GLS LWB
2001 Colt 3000i 4x4 D/C (SOLD)
Affiliate Member
the key will not come out of the ignition unless in "P"
I like to stop, neutral, handbrake up, take foot of the brake. If the car is then held stationary by the handbrake alone I move the lever to park.
That way I don't have that spine jarring clunk when coming out of park when I next use the car.
I like to stop, neutral, handbrake up, take foot of the brake. If the car is then held stationary by the handbrake alone I move the lever to park.
That way I don't have that spine jarring clunk when coming out of park when I next use the car.
Let me try again....
I want to put her in neutral,
pull-up the handbrake - handbrake should keep her stationary before putting her in park, put in park
get out and open the garage door, get back in and put her in drive and park in the garage.
Currently the handbrake does not keep her stationary when in neutral and she will roll backwards, so I have to put her in park to keep stationary which makes it difficult with a 'clunk' when taking her out of park (that ouch! sound).
But if I turn her around, meaning she will roll forward if in neutral with no brakes, then the handbrake actually works fine.
Thus in summary,
the handbrake is able to keep her from rolling forward but under same conditions it will not keep her from rolling backwards, handbrake was adjusted but it went back to this state after using it 2 or 3 times.
I want to put her in neutral,
pull-up the handbrake - handbrake should keep her stationary before putting her in park, put in park
get out and open the garage door, get back in and put her in drive and park in the garage.
Currently the handbrake does not keep her stationary when in neutral and she will roll backwards, so I have to put her in park to keep stationary which makes it difficult with a 'clunk' when taking her out of park (that ouch! sound).
But if I turn her around, meaning she will roll forward if in neutral with no brakes, then the handbrake actually works fine.
Thus in summary,
the handbrake is able to keep her from rolling forward but under same conditions it will not keep her from rolling backwards, handbrake was adjusted but it went back to this state after using it 2 or 3 times.
...and no, I cant reverse into the garage because the roofrack catches the door when i reverse and due to shelving in garage she only fits nose first 
4ePikanini wrote: That way I don't have that spine jarring clunk when coming out of park when I next use the car.
Could you maybe explain why this clunk sound is being made? Does it harm my car? Definitely sound like it....
Affiliate Member
the park mechanism angages a pin that locks the gearbox. When moving out of park you forcefully retract that pin if the car's weight is resting against it.
If the force is too great the pin wears or something else in the mechanism might break.
here is an example
If the force is too great the pin wears or something else in the mechanism might break.
here is an example
I think the park mechanism was designed to take the forces when disengaging it.
I hate the 'klunk' as well (on the Touareg), but I'd rather trust that mechanism than a parking brake's cable.
(Imagine the chaos, should the cable break while you are opening the garage door!)
I just make sure that I step hard on the brake when I move the shifter from park.
I hate the 'klunk' as well (on the Touareg), but I'd rather trust that mechanism than a parking brake's cable.
(Imagine the chaos, should the cable break while you are opening the garage door!)
I just make sure that I step hard on the brake when I move the shifter from park.
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
Neil,
Two aspects that might help:
a. You can / should adjust the handbrake so that it takes earlier. There should be no / very little difference with the "hold" of the handbrake between rolling forward or backwards with the lever pulled to the same position.
b. If there is a big difference, I would suggest that you take the disks (druns) off and make sure that everything inside the "drum" is OK - that is the whole handbrake mechanism at the rear wheels.
Cloyd.
Two aspects that might help:
a. You can / should adjust the handbrake so that it takes earlier. There should be no / very little difference with the "hold" of the handbrake between rolling forward or backwards with the lever pulled to the same position.
b. If there is a big difference, I would suggest that you take the disks (druns) off and make sure that everything inside the "drum" is OK - that is the whole handbrake mechanism at the rear wheels.
Cloyd.