I have just purchased a 2002 3500 LWB and have the following issues:
Diff locks lights keep flashing when enaged(center) I am not sure if it is actually engaging..
Back diff lock light doesn't stop blinking from start up.
I can move selector through all the positions, but the vehicle definitely does not go into low range. I have done most of the checks that I could find on the forum, but unfortunately this is my first pajero and I am still a bit lost..
Does anyone live in the Middelburg, MP area that can maybe just take me through the vehicle?
Do the front wheel lights stay lit when in 4H? After some use my centre diff lock also flashed when engaged. It was just a faulty sensor on the gear box. The sensor is quite difficult to get to as they sit on top of the box
When you shift into low range do you put the gearbox into neutral?
When you shift into low range do you put the gearbox into neutral?
Hi Keenan,
When 4H is selected the front green lights stay on. As soon as I move to 4HLC the centre diff lock start flashing and the same as for 4LLC. The transfer does not switch to low range though as the pull of the vehicle is the same as in 4H. What I have discovered further is teh rear diff lock's plug was unplugged allowing the dash light to come on with initial start up and then go out, showing all in order. I connected the plug again but and I now have a permanent rear diff flashing light and the yellow ABS light on as well now.
Biggest concern is teh centre diff not engaging (keeps flashing) and the low range not being selected at all. Hope to hear from you soon.
Thank you
When 4H is selected the front green lights stay on. As soon as I move to 4HLC the centre diff lock start flashing and the same as for 4LLC. The transfer does not switch to low range though as the pull of the vehicle is the same as in 4H. What I have discovered further is teh rear diff lock's plug was unplugged allowing the dash light to come on with initial start up and then go out, showing all in order. I connected the plug again but and I now have a permanent rear diff flashing light and the yellow ABS light on as well now.
Biggest concern is teh centre diff not engaging (keeps flashing) and the low range not being selected at all. Hope to hear from you soon.
Thank you
When my centre diff light flashed it was just a faulty sensor. When in 4hlc the centre diff light flashed, when I engaged 4llc the centre diff light continued to flash. As my vehicle was still able to enage low range the first thing to look at was the sensors on the gear box (this topic has been discussed widely on the forum with 4EPikannini having detailed posts on the subject with diagrams). The fact that your vehicle isn't engaging into low range suggestes that it could be a sensor and/or vacuum pump issue or a break in the vacuum lines. If the centre diff didn't flash and the vehicle was not engaging low range then you could eliminate the sensors and just check the vacuum pump and lines.
Hi Keenan,
Guess what I am doing this weekend.. I am going to be tracing vacuum piping all over(those I know about) and will report back.
Thanks again so far.
On your vehicle, when the centre diff was flashing, did it actually lock the diff or not?
Guess what I am doing this weekend.. I am going to be tracing vacuum piping all over(those I know about) and will report back.
Thanks again so far.
On your vehicle, when the centre diff was flashing, did it actually lock the diff or not?
James,
The diff lock warning light indicating that the diff is locked works on a slip ring and plunger type switch - somewhat similar to the brushes in an altenator except that both the slip ring and the plunger are in the diff housing. The plunger tip tends to get worn off thereby making it shorter and in the end it can not make the electrical contact although the diff is locked. It is a simple job to replace the plunger, but it is difficult to hook it in inside the diff without taking the rear cover of.
Cloyd.
The diff lock warning light indicating that the diff is locked works on a slip ring and plunger type switch - somewhat similar to the brushes in an altenator except that both the slip ring and the plunger are in the diff housing. The plunger tip tends to get worn off thereby making it shorter and in the end it can not make the electrical contact although the diff is locked. It is a simple job to replace the plunger, but it is difficult to hook it in inside the diff without taking the rear cover of.
Cloyd.
After a quite extensive tracing I didn't find any broken or cracked vacuum piping anywhere on the vehicle. I took the vehicle to an ex- agent of Mits. in Middelburg to have teh cambelt together with teh tensioner and idlers changed. They also went through the vehicle for me and reported the following.
It seems as if teh rear diff lock's motor is burnt, thus not able to engage at all. (remember the light on the dashboard lights up normally and goes off with start up, indicazting all fine as per teh owners manual.) IT DOES THIS AS WELL WHEN THE PLUG IS DISCONNECTED!!, SO BE AWARE... If teh plug is re connected the light doesn't stop flashing at all and the ABS light also lights up.------so for now it is disconnected.
AS for the 4 low range not engaging, they recommend to drop the gearbox and replace the sensor(4H/4L) and the center diff lock sensor at teh same time.
Is there any way I can try and determine if these are faulty before undertaking the drop of the gearbox?
Any thought or assistance will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your comments and assistance so far.
It seems as if teh rear diff lock's motor is burnt, thus not able to engage at all. (remember the light on the dashboard lights up normally and goes off with start up, indicazting all fine as per teh owners manual.) IT DOES THIS AS WELL WHEN THE PLUG IS DISCONNECTED!!, SO BE AWARE... If teh plug is re connected the light doesn't stop flashing at all and the ABS light also lights up.------so for now it is disconnected.
AS for the 4 low range not engaging, they recommend to drop the gearbox and replace the sensor(4H/4L) and the center diff lock sensor at teh same time.
Is there any way I can try and determine if these are faulty before undertaking the drop of the gearbox?
Any thought or assistance will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your comments and assistance so far.
Site Admin
Unusual for the RDL to burn out. Do you not hear a gentle buzzing from under the rear passenger seats when switching on the RDL?
Hi Simon,
No I don't.. I removed the square panel under the seat on the driver's side but there has never been any pump or anything in there. I did this after I had read up on the forum about this. You can see there has been no tampering there as the lid has never been removed in the past.. so I am still a bit stuck at the moment.
Thank you
James
No I don't.. I removed the square panel under the seat on the driver's side but there has never been any pump or anything in there. I did this after I had read up on the forum about this. You can see there has been no tampering there as the lid has never been removed in the past.. so I am still a bit stuck at the moment.
Thank you
James
Site Admin
Ok now you have me confused... you have RDL, and the mech says the motor has burnt out... but you have no compressor for the locker... So where is it?JAMESCUNNINGHAM wrote:Hi Simon,
No I don't.. I removed the square panel under the seat on the driver's side but there has never been any pump or anything in there. I did this after I had read up on the forum about this. You can see there has been no tampering there as the lid has never been removed in the past.. so I am still a bit stuck at the moment.
Thank you
James
Simon Bloomer