Hi Guys,
I am in need of some help/advice.
I have removed my torsion bars with the aim of some preventitive maintenace.
So this is the way I did it:
1) Jacked the front of the vehicle with wheels of the ground.
2) Undid Anchor arm bolt and removed the Bars.
On installation again :
I followed the procedure for new bars:
1)Lined the shafts up to the marks on the Anchor arms and Torque arms.
2) Tightened the Anchor Arms with Anchor Arm Bolt protrusion up to 80 mm as specified.
My problem is: The Torsion Bars are marked L & R which was installed L/R .
On each end there is an A and a B.
On question to local Mitsu I was told it does not matter which goes where. A in the front or B in the front. On removal B was in front and A in the rear at tension side.
I can not get enough lift now as the Arms are right into the support beam already and the one side is and stays 10 mm lower than the other. The specified 21 - 23 mm front bump stop rubber head to bump stop can also not reached.
Any gurus out there who can tell me what I did wrong or should have done differently?
Your help appreciated
Regards
Ok took the vehicle to TWT and it seems a bit more complicated that I thought.
Firstly it does not matter which end goes where.
Secondly Mitsu was wrong in suggesting that the tension arm must settle in the slot of the support beam. According to the Technician if you reach that stage where the arm slots in it means your bars are out of spring
Never the less we took some time to do the adjustings and setting up riding height.
As per explanation the two bars will at one point have different spring in them hence the difference in torsion arm tensioner height.
the trick seems that - because of age I reckon the splines can be rotated a bit to accomodate the spring loss.
What he did was to rotate the torsion bar a few splines , measured the length of bolt to just stick out of top washer enough to fit nut full thread and tightened.
Clearly not a job for at home as you need to push it by air jack a little bit to have bolt protrusion.
After that it was matter of adjusting - adjust and let vehicle down - settle it- adjust again and so forth untill correct settings were achived. I have also asked to have the front a little bit lower that the back in riding height as I sometimes tow a caravan.
all seems to be OK now
Firstly it does not matter which end goes where.
Secondly Mitsu was wrong in suggesting that the tension arm must settle in the slot of the support beam. According to the Technician if you reach that stage where the arm slots in it means your bars are out of spring
Never the less we took some time to do the adjustings and setting up riding height.
As per explanation the two bars will at one point have different spring in them hence the difference in torsion arm tensioner height.
the trick seems that - because of age I reckon the splines can be rotated a bit to accomodate the spring loss.
What he did was to rotate the torsion bar a few splines , measured the length of bolt to just stick out of top washer enough to fit nut full thread and tightened.
Clearly not a job for at home as you need to push it by air jack a little bit to have bolt protrusion.
After that it was matter of adjusting - adjust and let vehicle down - settle it- adjust again and so forth untill correct settings were achived. I have also asked to have the front a little bit lower that the back in riding height as I sometimes tow a caravan.
all seems to be OK now