[Nismo]

Marius,

Please let us know, this will be very interesting. But will this only help on highway driving? Still looking for something that will help with town driving.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

[4ePikanini]

I can lock it up at anytime so when cruising in town i can utilise the lock up as well with the tiptronic function. Leaving it in drive makes it shift up way too soon and cause the car to be in too high a gear with the revs just above idle and we know how that feels like in a turbo diesel when there is no boost available in high gear.

Highway will definitely be a huge advantage locking the TC. I can however from my test drive experience say that the slippage of the torque converter plays a very big role in the higher consumption on the autos. I dont know how TranskeiCowboy used to get 10l/100km with his gen3 GLX auto. I can only assume his gearbox ecu locked up the torque converter more readily than ours.

I'll make a note on my fuelly today marking the installation and then it can be seen anytime what my consumption does from this point forward.

Sent via iPad & Forum Runner

[4ePikanini]

Right, I have run into a slight issue.

Because I wired in an extra relay that reverts back to stock wiring when the ecu wants to lock up on it's own, I get a very fast clicking on and off relay due to the PWM behaviour of the stock TCC mechanism.

I now have two options.

1. remove the relay so the TCC stays locked at 100% PWM but then 12v is running through the resistor (when ecu wants to lock up on it's own and my switch is on) at that PWM frequency making it heat up to a certain extent.

2. Find a capacitor or delay of some sort to shorten the response time of the relay.

[Ernie]

Here is a idea. If you wire in the brake pedal switch you could have it disengage the manual lock function as soon as you step on the brake pedal. As soon as you lift your foot of the pedal it will re-engage to locked state. Kind of like having a clutch on the auto. This will give you a jerk start once you lift your foot of the brake. This will not be a problem for instance in low down a slope or even in low speed low range driving. In normal everyday town driving it wont work. to counter it add a delay from when you lift your foot of the break until it re engage. Sounds complicated, but it's not. The delay can also be replaced by a counter that would count a number of pulses from the speed sensor before it re engage the lock.

[Nismo]

I think that is a good idea Ernie, then this will make it possible to use it for town driving as well.

[4ePikanini]

I thought of doing it that way but setting off will stall the vehicle if you take your foot off the brake.

Another issue is that the ecu changes to the next gear up based on it's load map which will put the rpm in boost range but if the lock up clutch is engaged the up gear will result in the rpm being below the torque band.

The on off switch is ideal as the flick of a switch is not much effort and it gives ultimate control without major changes to the ecu wiring or splicing elsewhere. I don't want to add too much complexity for fear of having to diagnose an issue somewhere if a fuse blows or a relay sticks.

The way I have mine is that in case of an issue I can remove the center console in less than 5 minutes and just reconnect the spliced wires to each other and then the car is back to stock form.

At the moment everything works but remember that I installed a relay that will render the wiring in stock form when the ecu wants to lock up on it's own.

This creates an issue for me as the standard lock up is a varied PWM (pulse width modulation) which basically switches the TCC on and off between 10 - 50 times a second. If my switch is on that causes the relay to click on and off at that frequency when the ecu tries to lock by it's own means.

I can either just disconnect that relay which will mean that the ecu lock up won't work standard when my switch is on (but everything still stays stock when the switch is off) but that means 12v pass through my resistor (if my switch is on) at the PWM frequency when the ecu tries to lock up. I suppose I must just do a test on the highway at speed where the ecu wants to lock up and monitor the resistor temperature. If it doesn't get too hot (constant 12v makes that resistor scalding hot) then I'll just remove that one relay but I would prefer not having 12v go through that resistor at all, but in order to do that I need to figure out how to change the PWM to a solid signal. A small capacitor will probably do the job but I suspect that will create heat as well.

[4ePikanini]

My recommendation would be to use the switch in tiptronic mode for town driving. But that is being overly eager for economy but can be done.

The biggest advantage with this mod is the gains when cruising at a fairly constant speed, either in town or highway, as well as the benefit of extra engine braking on long downhills and off road.

[Ernie]

I am going to try it an see how it works. Will let you know.

[4ePikanini]

I am going to try it an see how it works. Will let you know.

Hi Ernie.

Is yours gen2 or gen3? I don't think this will work on the gen2.

[Ernie]

The only difference between the gearboxes is the gen 2 does not have solenoid valves for reverse, ect. In my box I have 3 valves. 2 for selecting 1,2,3,4 and a lockup valve for the convertor. I have the spitronics TCU on it at the moment so for me to try is only a change on the laptop. But without a delay or counter I doubt that it will work. The only way to know for sure is to try and see what happens.