arnijr
Fitting fiberglass fender flares
A few pictures of my fender flares being mounted. These are an Icelandic design and manufacture. I managed to find a set at a breaking yard and got them for a good price.

Here's a few pictures of the flares being prepared:

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Managed to remove all the mudguards and the running boards. Most bolts and screws came out easily enough, only broke a couple :oops: Removing the glue is the most annoying part.

Removed the little bracket holding the front mudguards, will not be needing that anymore.
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The 33's had an appetite for mudguards and had been gnawing on the front ones a bit.
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The rear brackets for the mudguards will be reused, much more space in the back.
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Here the flares have only been loosely fitted the flares, but I think they look pretty good.
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In the picture of the rear flares, the part that attaches to the door is still missing, that's glued on and I'm not to the glue part yet.

The flares are screwed on from below/inside and will then be glued on around the outside.
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The front fender has to be cut a bit to easily fit 35's, about a couple of inches at the bottom and then tapering off.
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The brackets for the running boards had to be modified, they move out by about an inch. My friendly mechanic fixed that for me.

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Marking to cut the front fenders. The line closer to the flares marks the new fold, the other line is where the fenders are going to be cut. Not very much material is removed. This will make it able to fit 35x12.50s with the factory 2.8TDI body lift and a 40mm suspension lift.

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I did the cuts with an angle grinder. Hardest part is actually starting to cut into your truck :shock:

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Finally I used a wooden block and a small sledgehammer to make a new fold in the fender. The flash really picks up all the dents, it looks better in person. It's going to be covered with a mudguard anyway. I finished the day with priming and painting the areas where the paint cracked from the bending.

So, pretty much finished, still have some bolts to buy and add.

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Taped the door pieces on with masking tape.

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Here's the door piece after being glued on but before removing masking tape.

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The finished door piece.

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How to lift a Pajero 6 inches in four easy steps...

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...inflate the 33s that you had to deflate to get it into the garage. Having the valves without the stems makes a huge difference when inflating, as well as deflating. In this picture the air is connected to the regular valve for final adjustment.

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The camera is level, the car is not, after inflating the tires on the left hand side.

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Here's the (almost) finished product.

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And a couple of detail shots.