Had the first opportunity to drive the Paj (2005 GLX with 155k) on the highway.
Was really pleasantly surprised with the gearbox and the torque. Pulls really well and the gearbox changes imperceptibly .
Unfortunately when accelerating beyond 100km/h there is a noticeable vibration from the rear of the vehicle. Nothing that I can detect below 100km, and also no vibration on overrun or partial throttle.
I have gone through the topics associated with vibration and can't seem to find anything similar. I am reasonably technically minded but would really appreciate some specific checks associated with my symptoms.
The only thing I noticed so far was some sweat on the right rear CV boot (wheel side). AS far as I can tell the suspension is raised if I look at the ground clearance and shock extension at rest.
Krokenoster,
It seems as if you have answered all the questions yourself.
The vibs seem to be drivetrain rather than tyres or wheels related. Maybe stick somebody in the boot to see if they can sense which side it is (as a back-up diagnosis) for a worn CV joint. A raised suspension does add to the strain on a CV joint.
The CV boots want replacing if one is already sweating, so maybe use that opportunity to check out all the CV's.
Good luck,
Roelf
It seems as if you have answered all the questions yourself.
The vibs seem to be drivetrain rather than tyres or wheels related. Maybe stick somebody in the boot to see if they can sense which side it is (as a back-up diagnosis) for a worn CV joint. A raised suspension does add to the strain on a CV joint.
The CV boots want replacing if one is already sweating, so maybe use that opportunity to check out all the CV's.
Good luck,
Roelf
Prime suspect will always be the tyres / wheels:
it the problem lies with the wheels / tyres, the vibration will now come from the front, in which case you need to have them balanced and checked for being out-of-round.
If the vibration is still there, at least you know it is not caused by the tyres.
If the worst case is true (propshaft), don't believe the statement that it has to be replaced with a new carbon fibre part at a ridiculous price.
Any decent propshaft shop can manufacture a steel replacement at a fraction of the cost.
- Tyres out of balance
- Tyre/wheel out of round.
it the problem lies with the wheels / tyres, the vibration will now come from the front, in which case you need to have them balanced and checked for being out-of-round.
If the vibration is still there, at least you know it is not caused by the tyres.
If the worst case is true (propshaft), don't believe the statement that it has to be replaced with a new carbon fibre part at a ridiculous price.
Any decent propshaft shop can manufacture a steel replacement at a fraction of the cost.
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
Gerhard,
The fact that vibration is only evident under acceleration, is what prompted me opt for drive train issues.
Ofcourse, to swap wheels around is a cost-free exercise and can thus do no harm to try before. But, the CV boots also need replacing, so a decent CV joint inspection is also on the cards.
The fact that vibration is only evident under acceleration, is what prompted me opt for drive train issues.
Ofcourse, to swap wheels around is a cost-free exercise and can thus do no harm to try before. But, the CV boots also need replacing, so a decent CV joint inspection is also on the cards.
Agree 100%.
I tend to agree that there is a drive train 'problem', but need to exclude at least the wheels.
I had a Isuzu which had (very bad) vibrations only when turning left at ±80-100km/h!
The tyres were balanced perfectly at all times. Eventually I gave up. When the tyres wore out, and were replaced, the vibrations were gone.
Tyres which are out of round or have internal de-laminations will react differently when accelerating to when cruising.
I tend to agree that there is a drive train 'problem', but need to exclude at least the wheels.
I had a Isuzu which had (very bad) vibrations only when turning left at ±80-100km/h!
The tyres were balanced perfectly at all times. Eventually I gave up. When the tyres wore out, and were replaced, the vibrations were gone.
Tyres which are out of round or have internal de-laminations will react differently when accelerating to when cruising.
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
Affiliate Member
over 100km/h the torque converter tries to lock up under certain conditions.
Accelerating may put too much torque on the lockup clutch and cause a shudder to develop as the wet clutch slips.
Inspect the auto box fluid.
If it's a manual it could be the DMF - have a look through google. It is an easy but expensive fix.
Lastly to eliminate the flywheel or torque converter lock up clutch, put foot so the car kicks down to fourth. If the vibration goes away it is the torque converter or flywheel/clutch assembly. If the vibration stays then look at drivetrain components like propshafts, CV joints, wheel balancing and even shocks, bushes and alignment that could cause a shudder in some rare cases.
PS : Is your wheel nuts tightened to the correct torque?
Accelerating may put too much torque on the lockup clutch and cause a shudder to develop as the wet clutch slips.
Inspect the auto box fluid.
If it's a manual it could be the DMF - have a look through google. It is an easy but expensive fix.
Lastly to eliminate the flywheel or torque converter lock up clutch, put foot so the car kicks down to fourth. If the vibration goes away it is the torque converter or flywheel/clutch assembly. If the vibration stays then look at drivetrain components like propshafts, CV joints, wheel balancing and even shocks, bushes and alignment that could cause a shudder in some rare cases.
PS : Is your wheel nuts tightened to the correct torque?
Hi Guys.
Thank you very much for all the feedback.
Did some more testing to work today.
Tested in 4h as well. Same vibration which i would assume means the propshaft is probably not the primary culprit. Testedin manual mode with 4th and 5th gear and it is still the same. Picked up around some corners that there seems to be resistance when I turn to the right.
So my current main suspicion would probably be the cv. Have to mention that the vehicle is fitted with the steel wheels and Landsail Trailblazers, yip I have not heard of them either:-)
So out of round or delamination is probably not out of the question. Picking up the new wheels tomorrow, then just for the tyres.
Would you suggest I go to someone like sajco to have the cv replaced, or is this a diy job with standard tools, i used to replace the cvs on my golfs etc.
Thank you very much for all the feedback.
Did some more testing to work today.
Tested in 4h as well. Same vibration which i would assume means the propshaft is probably not the primary culprit. Testedin manual mode with 4th and 5th gear and it is still the same. Picked up around some corners that there seems to be resistance when I turn to the right.
So my current main suspicion would probably be the cv. Have to mention that the vehicle is fitted with the steel wheels and Landsail Trailblazers, yip I have not heard of them either:-)
So out of round or delamination is probably not out of the question. Picking up the new wheels tomorrow, then just for the tyres.
Would you suggest I go to someone like sajco to have the cv replaced, or is this a diy job with standard tools, i used to replace the cvs on my golfs etc.
Just a quick update.
Spent some quality time with and under the pajero today.
Absolutely no movement on either of the prop shafts, or any of the cvs. It was apparent that the paj had a proper dunking in mud recently. Properly washed out all the wheels and hubs. Dont think it will make a difference though.
Did an oil service and I am fairly certain the last owner skimped on the oil. Or lied about the last service. Engine is much quiter at idle with the new oil.
Next steps will be diff oil changes. And a set of new tyres.
Spent some quality time with and under the pajero today.
Absolutely no movement on either of the prop shafts, or any of the cvs. It was apparent that the paj had a proper dunking in mud recently. Properly washed out all the wheels and hubs. Dont think it will make a difference though.
Did an oil service and I am fairly certain the last owner skimped on the oil. Or lied about the last service. Engine is much quiter at idle with the new oil.
Next steps will be diff oil changes. And a set of new tyres.
Krokenoster
Not sure where you are based but I can highly recomend Hennops CV and Driveshaft in Centurion if you need cv boots replaced or any CV work done. Craig has done my CV boots and CV refurbishment at a decent cost. 0126538912
I also had vibration on mine when I lifted it too much, so can be linked to that by the way.
CATS
Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk 2
Not sure where you are based but I can highly recomend Hennops CV and Driveshaft in Centurion if you need cv boots replaced or any CV work done. Craig has done my CV boots and CV refurbishment at a decent cost. 0126538912
I also had vibration on mine when I lifted it too much, so can be linked to that by the way.
CATS
Sent from my GT-I9500 using Tapatalk 2
2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS (Gen4) - Casper (Starting to grow on me)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
Thanks CATS. Will try to go past there, a bit out of the way, but would do the effort for a decent job.
After liberally applying the pressure cleaner eventually figured out that a TJM XGS Gold suspension kit is installed in the vehicle, and according to some reports that goes up to approximately 60mm lift. Could definitely be part of the problem. Also swapped the wheels and now a significant portion is through the front wheels, but still a noise and vibration from the back.
Fitting a new set of tyres end of this week, there after see to the remaining vibration/noise.
After liberally applying the pressure cleaner eventually figured out that a TJM XGS Gold suspension kit is installed in the vehicle, and according to some reports that goes up to approximately 60mm lift. Could definitely be part of the problem. Also swapped the wheels and now a significant portion is through the front wheels, but still a noise and vibration from the back.
Fitting a new set of tyres end of this week, there after see to the remaining vibration/noise.