Hi All, I trust you guys out there with the lots of experience can assist.
My Gen3 3.8V6 auto at 140 000 km, does the following under load with a small trailer: Driving at ± 115 with cruise control engaged, the gearbox starts hunting between 5th and o/d. The revs goes from 2500 to 2800 and back again. After a few kms of this the gearbox goes into limp mode. (3rd with n light flashing.){Quite scary if this happens at 115 (;-o)}. This sometimes also happens when not using the cruise control.
If I then stop and switch off and restart all is well again for quite a few kms.
Do anyone have an idea of where to start looking for the problem?
Could this be caused by the gearbow oil be just on the upper limit on the dipstick?
Is the overdrive clutch shot? of or it's way out?
Any ideas or suggestions would be welcome.
Hi josstr,
That's probably caused by the design of the autobox.
The load of the trailer is just enough to prevent the box locking up properly at that speed. Then the slip is probably causing the transmission oil to overheat. And then the system's response is to go into limp mode to protect the box.
The autobox oil should be replaced approximately every 50k km and ONLY with Dia Queen from Mitsu. I would start by flushing and then changing the autobox oil. You will find some threads here on doing that.
I say flush as well because if the box has been slipping lots the oil is not going to be great.
Then overcome the root cause. It may be that the slip solenoid is faulty (I doubt it because of the symptoms you describe). So then you can look at changing your driving style - try 4th in cruise control as soon as it starts to hunt. Or look for an autobox locker (see Marius' 4ePikanini threads on this, or import from Australia).
That's probably caused by the design of the autobox.
The load of the trailer is just enough to prevent the box locking up properly at that speed. Then the slip is probably causing the transmission oil to overheat. And then the system's response is to go into limp mode to protect the box.
The autobox oil should be replaced approximately every 50k km and ONLY with Dia Queen from Mitsu. I would start by flushing and then changing the autobox oil. You will find some threads here on doing that.
I say flush as well because if the box has been slipping lots the oil is not going to be great.
Then overcome the root cause. It may be that the slip solenoid is faulty (I doubt it because of the symptoms you describe). So then you can look at changing your driving style - try 4th in cruise control as soon as it starts to hunt. Or look for an autobox locker (see Marius' 4ePikanini threads on this, or import from Australia).
Affiliate Member
Scan for codes
Oil change
Lock up kit
Nomad valve body
Low stall torque converter
- in that order
Sent from my iPad 2
Oil change
Lock up kit
Nomad valve body
Low stall torque converter
- in that order
Sent from my iPad 2
Jos,
The symptoms you mention are consistent with a box that kept on driving through the torque converter with an open clutch, (when the revs were up) then over heated and went into limp (protection) mode.
My concern is that the box shouldn't really struggle with a small trailer, so I think there is an underlying problem here.
Has your box received its regular(every 60k km) tranny fluid service?
Are you running standard size tires or did you go bigger?
I agree with your friends: get the oil flushed and replaced as a first step - over heated tranny oil takes a hammering and will under perform and eventually damage the box.
The symptoms you mention are consistent with a box that kept on driving through the torque converter with an open clutch, (when the revs were up) then over heated and went into limp (protection) mode.
My concern is that the box shouldn't really struggle with a small trailer, so I think there is an underlying problem here.
Has your box received its regular(every 60k km) tranny fluid service?
Are you running standard size tires or did you go bigger?
I agree with your friends: get the oil flushed and replaced as a first step - over heated tranny oil takes a hammering and will under perform and eventually damage the box.
Hi Again,
Thanks for the advice. I will look into the fluid flushing and replacing to start with.
I bought the "Train" fairly recently with 122k on the clock and it had a full service record. Does this mean the fluid was replaced? Who knows?
I also felt the small (6ft BSA) trailer is now enough to cause this. Without the trailer however it goes like a train, hence the name.
Will keep you posted as to the final outcome.
Thanks for the advice. I will look into the fluid flushing and replacing to start with.
I bought the "Train" fairly recently with 122k on the clock and it had a full service record. Does this mean the fluid was replaced? Who knows?
I also felt the small (6ft BSA) trailer is now enough to cause this. Without the trailer however it goes like a train, hence the name.
Will keep you posted as to the final outcome.
Welcome to Pajero ownership if this is your first.josstr wrote:Hi Again,
Thanks for the advice. I will look into the fluid flushing and replacing to start with.
I bought the "Train" fairly recently with 122k on the clock and it had a full service record. Does this mean the fluid was replaced? Who knows?
Who knows, indeed.
It should have been done at 60k km and 120k km.
You need to do it now anyway since the oil has probably cooked.
While you are digging around, make sure that your top timing chain guide is all in one piece and not deteriorating / cracking. (Take the tappet cover oil filler cap off and use a torch and mirror). Search this forum for threads on top timing chain guide if you are not sure what this is and why you need to check it.
Enjoy driving your spirited car!
While you are digging around, make sure that your top timing chain guide is all in one piece and not deteriorating / cracking. (Take the tappet cover oil filler cap off and use a torch and mirror). Search this forum for threads on top timing chain guide if you are not sure what this is and why you need to check it.
Jos,
This doesn't apply to your 3.8V6, but only to the 3.2DiD motors. Andrew missed the first line of your first post
There are so few 3.8V6's on the road that most Pajero owners just assume all Pajeros are diesel
Jos,
This doesn't apply to your 3.8V6, but only to the 3.2DiD motors. Andrew missed the first line of your first post
There are so few 3.8V6's on the road that most Pajero owners just assume all Pajeros are diesel
Oops - apologies for misleading you and thanks Roelf for picking that up. I see that you guys who own petrol refineries and don't have to worry about consumption stick together!RoelfleRoux wrote:
Jos,
This doesn't apply to your 3.8V6, but only to the 3.2DiD motors. Andrew missed the first line of your first post
There are so few 3.8V6's on the road that most Pajero owners just assume all Pajeros are diesel
"I see that you guys who own petrol refineries and don't have to worry about consumption stick together!"
It's more like an AA meeting....:
"Hi, my name is 3.8V6 MIVEC and I have a drinking problem"
It's more like an AA meeting....:
"Hi, my name is 3.8V6 MIVEC and I have a drinking problem"
Interesting as it was something really troubling me on my recent 6000km trip to Namibia (2011 SWB Gen 4 3.2 DiD - Unichipped, towing a Bush Lapa Boskriek. At 100 to 110 kmph on speed control it would keep on going back to 5th (from what I presumed was an "overdrive" gear, almost like 6th?) I would then kick the brake and proceed in normal foot control mode, just lightly touching the pedal with no problem. It would drop down to around 2000 rpm (from 2400 plus minus) and I did not get the impression that there was any notable "suffering" from either the engine nor the gear box, everything just "purring" ahead. If I did not do that my fuel consumption would have been disastrous - got on average about 13 liter per 100kms.
Comment would be appreciated.
Regards
Louis
Comment would be appreciated.
Regards
Louis