I drive a 2006 3.2 LWB and have just serviced my car. The last thing I need to do is change the oils in the transfer case plus front and back differentials.
I have decided to have the job done by Gearmax as it easier to have it done by a comp[any with the correct equipment than struggle under my car.
They say they use 85W 140 oil and I want to know if this is the correct oil to use in both diffs and transfer case.
Please offer advice and if you believe there is a better garage to do the job in the Randburg area. Gearmax will let me watch when they do the job.
@vanasp,
You can't use the same oil in diffs and transfer case!
According the the manual:
Front diff 1.15 litres
Rear diff 1.6 litres
Both the above Hypoid gear oil API GL-5 or higher SAE90 for 10C (GL-5 = Extreme Pressure / EP)
(Some people use Castrol Syntrax Long-Life75W90)
Transfer case 2.8 litre Gear Oil API GL-4 SAE75W90 or 75W-85W
(I see many people also use 75W90 for this application - Some people use Castrol BOT402 for the transfer case)
The key and essential difference there is GL-4 vs GL-5.
If you use the Syntrax in the rear diff you may find that the companion shaft seals start weeping if they are old.
Please double check what I have said with your friendly service agent!
You can't use the same oil in diffs and transfer case!
According the the manual:
Front diff 1.15 litres
Rear diff 1.6 litres
Both the above Hypoid gear oil API GL-5 or higher SAE90 for 10C (GL-5 = Extreme Pressure / EP)
(Some people use Castrol Syntrax Long-Life75W90)
Transfer case 2.8 litre Gear Oil API GL-4 SAE75W90 or 75W-85W
(I see many people also use 75W90 for this application - Some people use Castrol BOT402 for the transfer case)
The key and essential difference there is GL-4 vs GL-5.
If you use the Syntrax in the rear diff you may find that the companion shaft seals start weeping if they are old.
Please double check what I have said with your friendly service agent!
Hi Andrew
Thanks for the advice and saving me from making a mistake and using the incorrect oils.
Maybe I should do the job myself and make sure it is done correctly.
Paul
Thanks for the advice and saving me from making a mistake and using the incorrect oils.
Maybe I should do the job myself and make sure it is done correctly.
Paul
That is often the best:vanasp wrote:Hi Andrew
Thanks for the advice and saving me from making a mistake and using the incorrect oils.
Maybe I should do the job myself and make sure it is done correctly.
Paul
1. Read the owners manual
2. Read the workshop manual (On this site at Resources|Downloads|Manuals|Workshop Manuals)
For non-common rail engines there is nothing magical in terms of most of the basic service work that is called for, and truth to tell there is no tuning that the the agents are able to do. Services involve changing some fluids, lubricating a few things like door locks and occasionally changing filters / pads / disks.
If you do it yourself it gives you great peace of mind and the confidence to know that if something happens far from home you have a good idea of what to do.
Why let gearmax do the oil change? I did the front and rear diff as well as the transfer box in under an hour, with the help of the wife. 1.5m hose with a funel is all you need to refill. Very very easy, at a 1/3rd of the cost.
Mplester I like your idea of using a longer pipe to help when filling, I had not thought of that.
I use a 1.5litre pump spray (about R50 from Wespak - the type that you put the liquid in and then pump to pressurise), attach a length of clear tubing to the outlet and then just pump the oil in - dead easy and no mess.
Not my idea, someone mentioned on this forum or another such forum.
Not my idea, someone mentioned on this forum or another such forum.
Affiliate Member
The spec is more important than the weight
GL-4 in the transfer case
GL-5 in the differentials
GL-4 in the manual transmission
Dia Queen ATF SPIII in the automatic transmission
GL-4 in the transfer case
GL-5 in the differentials
GL-4 in the manual transmission
Dia Queen ATF SPIII in the automatic transmission