Thanks for the picture now I understand. I was confused as our last topic of conversation was to do with the grommet at the rear of the car and you are referring to the wiring loom boot at the front of the car. I did mention getting the wires through this boot in my original article.
I highly recommend that you try and seal the section where the wires have punctured the boot with some silicon sealer or else you are very likely to have water ingress into the inside of the car. Good luck with the rest of the project
Hi, my 16mm wire for the Brad Harrison plug (for the trailer ) from the main battery is routed underneath through the chassis to the tow bar, making sure that it will not be damaged or caught by any moving parts or rough off road driving conditions, had no problem since 10 years back.
As I am also going to install a dual battery system, I would like to know if it will be a problem if the cable from the dual battery follows the same route and enters the luggage compartment at the back via the same rubber plug in the floor as mentioned earlier in the post?
As I am also going to install a dual battery system, I would like to know if it will be a problem if the cable from the dual battery follows the same route and enters the luggage compartment at the back via the same rubber plug in the floor as mentioned earlier in the post?
Hi Dsnyman
I don't see a problem as that rubber grommet is very large and easy to access from under the car and the wires will not catch easily as it is high up. The only issue is inside the car there is a large plastic section for the rear seat which is in the way. I managed to get a large screw driver in there to separate the plastic from the steel bodywork and get my hand in to get to the wires i put through the grommet. I did not want to make holes in the plastic as it helps keep that section waterproof.
I hope this helps you.
Regards
Paul
I don't see a problem as that rubber grommet is very large and easy to access from under the car and the wires will not catch easily as it is high up. The only issue is inside the car there is a large plastic section for the rear seat which is in the way. I managed to get a large screw driver in there to separate the plastic from the steel bodywork and get my hand in to get to the wires i put through the grommet. I did not want to make holes in the plastic as it helps keep that section waterproof.
I hope this helps you.
Regards
Paul
On mine I took a single cable through the roof into the load bin
In the holder for the jack I split the cable into 2
1 x for the trailer that goes out via the grommet and
1 x coiled up to be used fo the dual battery inside the car
I took the grommet out and drilled 2 holes in it slightly smaller than the actual cable and then forced it through
I then guided the cables back into the load bin and used a 24 spanner and a screw driver to get the grommet back into place.
The top went in as normal an I then used the spanner to put pressure on the rubber and used the screwdriver to push the rubber upwards until it popped back in.
We did some slow water crossings since with now water entering
In the holder for the jack I split the cable into 2
1 x for the trailer that goes out via the grommet and
1 x coiled up to be used fo the dual battery inside the car
I took the grommet out and drilled 2 holes in it slightly smaller than the actual cable and then forced it through
I then guided the cables back into the load bin and used a 24 spanner and a screw driver to get the grommet back into place.
The top went in as normal an I then used the spanner to put pressure on the rubber and used the screwdriver to push the rubber upwards until it popped back in.
We did some slow water crossings since with now water entering
Hi everyone. In my forester I ran only the +cable from the engine bay through the firewall all the way to the back where I split it to a brad Harrison inside for a fridge and outside for the trailer. The negative for the plugs was connected on the body of the car in the boot. It worked 100 %. Why is a neg cable needed if the body is the negative? I need to do this on my pajero now.
Hi Mantovani
In my opinion it is to ensure a positive connection (continuity). If you make use of the car body the currents can flow via other components and in the event of the main negative connection coming loose or becoming a bad connection the return currents will flow via these other components not rated for the current you are drawing. This will generally lead to a fire due to hot connections which you don't want. Be safe and use a negative conductor as you are going to drawing high currents and this will also limit volt drop.
In my opinion it is to ensure a positive connection (continuity). If you make use of the car body the currents can flow via other components and in the event of the main negative connection coming loose or becoming a bad connection the return currents will flow via these other components not rated for the current you are drawing. This will generally lead to a fire due to hot connections which you don't want. Be safe and use a negative conductor as you are going to drawing high currents and this will also limit volt drop.
Hi All,
Just got me a "new" Pajero 2015 demo model. Busy fitting a dual battery in the engine bay. So far so good but over the years the designers have filled up the bay with all sorts of goodies. Having a look at this thread there is no way I can fit the National Luna intelligent solenoid between the two batteries, just no space. Anyone done this on a recent model Gen 4 ?
Help appreciated
Cheers
Henri
Just got me a "new" Pajero 2015 demo model. Busy fitting a dual battery in the engine bay. So far so good but over the years the designers have filled up the bay with all sorts of goodies. Having a look at this thread there is no way I can fit the National Luna intelligent solenoid between the two batteries, just no space. Anyone done this on a recent model Gen 4 ?
Help appreciated
Cheers
Henri
OK I managed to fit it against the bulkhead behind the newly positioned battery. I have opted for repositioning the 70 Ah car battery in the new tray and the second 102 Ah battery in the original tray. I had to cut out a section of the lip of the tray to get the 102 Ah battery to fit. I cannot use the plastic box at all. Any suggestions on a vertical protector between the engine and the battery to absorb heat?
Cheers
Cheers
Hi,
I considered so many options, particularly different sized batteries, within the space available.
Eventually, with the patience of helpful battery suppliers, did the setup in the pic.
I have used two identical batteries, the reason being that the internal resistances of differing batteries would be different & so bias the charging to the larger battery.
I used a Cole Hersee (in the foreground) to switch the second battery in & out of service.
In the space between the two batteries is an 85amp DC circuit breaker that manages all of the lighter loads on the second battery, (my winch comes directly off the second battery). The advantage is that if it trips it costs nothing to reset - two blown fuses will pay the extra cost!
Hope this helps.
D
I considered so many options, particularly different sized batteries, within the space available.
Eventually, with the patience of helpful battery suppliers, did the setup in the pic.
I have used two identical batteries, the reason being that the internal resistances of differing batteries would be different & so bias the charging to the larger battery.
I used a Cole Hersee (in the foreground) to switch the second battery in & out of service.
In the space between the two batteries is an 85amp DC circuit breaker that manages all of the lighter loads on the second battery, (my winch comes directly off the second battery). The advantage is that if it trips it costs nothing to reset - two blown fuses will pay the extra cost!
D