Have you found a fix?
Anybody else experience this with powerbrake? I was keen on getting a set...
When I fitted Powerbrakes to my Gen 3 the improvement was drastic. The pads only lasted some 20k though. They did not have the original AT3 pads any more, so they sold me the Bendix Ultimate pad. It is not as good as the original and my disks have now developed a shudder. 
2005 Pajero GLS LWB DiD
Geolander AT/S, FrontRunner roofrack, OME, dual-battery
Nikon D4, 500VR
Geolander AT/S, FrontRunner roofrack, OME, dual-battery
Nikon D4, 500VR
So 1 all fine, 3 with shudder... Not a good success rate. Any others with experience?
Karl
I can comment on Gen3 Powerbrake upgrade.
Totally happy with mine.
If you read their website they are very particular about ensuring the mating surface on the wheel hub must be absolutely free of dust / corrosion etc (and obviously the hub itself must not have any run out - I think they suggest checking runout with a dial gauge).
When I did mine I put a wire brush on my drilling machine and used that along with some brake part cleaner to get the hub almost shiny clean before fitting the Powerbrake rotors.
I also did a full service on the slave cylinders and calipers because it is also important for smooth braking that the caliper assembly floats freely.
Remember that the wheel nuts must always be correctly torqued to OEM torque (and when you change a wheel, try not to let the rotor separate from the hub - else debris may get behind and then there will be runout on the rotor).
Bed the pads into the rotors per Powerbrake's detailed recommendations. You can also try same technique to try to clear any shudder if all the above points are 100%.
I think it IS a pity that Powerbrake don't have their own factory installer who could fit properly and diagnose any problems that clients experience.
Totally happy with mine.
If you read their website they are very particular about ensuring the mating surface on the wheel hub must be absolutely free of dust / corrosion etc (and obviously the hub itself must not have any run out - I think they suggest checking runout with a dial gauge).
When I did mine I put a wire brush on my drilling machine and used that along with some brake part cleaner to get the hub almost shiny clean before fitting the Powerbrake rotors.
I also did a full service on the slave cylinders and calipers because it is also important for smooth braking that the caliper assembly floats freely.
Remember that the wheel nuts must always be correctly torqued to OEM torque (and when you change a wheel, try not to let the rotor separate from the hub - else debris may get behind and then there will be runout on the rotor).
Bed the pads into the rotors per Powerbrake's detailed recommendations. You can also try same technique to try to clear any shudder if all the above points are 100%.
I think it IS a pity that Powerbrake don't have their own factory installer who could fit properly and diagnose any problems that clients experience.
Hi tell me more about this?What did it cost?and what done it?
Hi Gents
The shudder has been nailed - for now.
Powerbrakes are great but only available for the front.
The last diagnosis was that the brake-force distribution on the vehicle was set incorrectly. The vehicle basically braked with rear brakes taking 70% of the force. This was changed around and the problem went away - for now.
Time will tell.
The shudder has been nailed - for now.
Powerbrakes are great but only available for the front.
The last diagnosis was that the brake-force distribution on the vehicle was set incorrectly. The vehicle basically braked with rear brakes taking 70% of the force. This was changed around and the problem went away - for now.
Time will tell.
Gen 3 GLX 3.2 (Sold)
Gen 4 GLX 3.2
Toy Xtracab 3.0 4x4
Gen 4 GLX 3.2
Toy Xtracab 3.0 4x4