Hi again friends.
I'm making reference to this thread started by rad006 instead of just adding to that thread but if i must connect the two, let me know. https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... =25&t=6073
As you'll see in one of my posts in rad006 thread, I too have this perplexing clicking noise. It sounds like it's coming from the rear, but today something odd happened and its made me wonder if, as OFTEN happens, our poorly developed triangulation hearing senses are messing with us (me?).
I mounted a pavement but my lynx bash plate made a rather sturdy impact against the concrete. I didn't feel it in the car per se, but the sound was convincing enough to let me know there's some chips out of that pavement block. From that moment on, the perplexing clicking and creaking noise has been made much much worse. Moving the gear shifter from R to D: the undercarriage creaks loudly; pull off: it creaks; brake: it creaks and clicks. Take my foot off the gas peddle mid acceleration: creaks and clicks.
My thinking now is that the bash plate is not as flexible as the undercarriage / chassis of the 7 year old LWB Gen4. There car flexes slightly and there is some noise emanating from the steel plate / washer / bolts. some online checking and i've found another forum thread that seems to suggest my suspicions might have some validity : see here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=349237.
I'm trying to find ways to convince the universe it's a simple problem and not something in the drive-train / prop / diff / side-shaft mechanism... wishful thinking.
Your thoughts please?
have a great week.
GC
Seems to me that that is simple to diagnose:
1. Remove bashplate.
2. Go for drive (without mounting car destroying pavements).
3. If sound has gone, your diagnosis may well be correct.
4. Reinstall bashplate with copperslip on all faces that touch "chassis" rails and with copperslip on all washer faces and fixing bolt threads.
1. Remove bashplate.
2. Go for drive (without mounting car destroying pavements).
3. If sound has gone, your diagnosis may well be correct.
4. Reinstall bashplate with copperslip on all faces that touch "chassis" rails and with copperslip on all washer faces and fixing bolt threads.
Thanks Andrew. Your plan was similar to mine, except in my plan i had "take to Mitspro and have them .... "
Have a gr3at day
Have a gr3at day
Its not the bash plate. I did some tests in the garage and have narrowed it down to the rear left wheel area... any ideas?
I think it goes something like this:
[You / your favourite indie] remove both rear driveshafts, strip, clean (especially rust from outer splines), replace but swap sides - i.e. driveshaft originally on right, now put on left & vice versa.
While you are at it, check condition of rubber boots and of oil seals on the diff (the seal that runs against the companion shaft. Replace boots if damaged. Replace oil seals if any sign of sweating.
Copperslip the outer splines during reassembly.
Pretty sure there is a post on this somewhere.
Anyone else got anything to add?
[You / your favourite indie] remove both rear driveshafts, strip, clean (especially rust from outer splines), replace but swap sides - i.e. driveshaft originally on right, now put on left & vice versa.
While you are at it, check condition of rubber boots and of oil seals on the diff (the seal that runs against the companion shaft. Replace boots if damaged. Replace oil seals if any sign of sweating.
Copperslip the outer splines during reassembly.
Pretty sure there is a post on this somewhere.
Anyone else got anything to add?