[Nick Gibson]

I provided the link iro refurbishing injector pump and GE sensor / actuator - not because it represented identical symptoms.

If you read those various threads you will see:
1. ECU can throw a code 48 (GE sensor/ actuator)
2. Sometimes the error message has to do with speed sensors (easier and less costly to replace) and NOT to do with GE sensor / actuator
3. GE sensor / actuators do tend to fail more often around this age / mileage

Hi Andrew. Thanks for the time and effort researching the posts, I spent about 3 hours earlier today combing though all the posts and relevant links that you posted before I decided to take my pajero to a specialist.

It seems like no one has had or posted similar symptoms to me, and that the GE actuator and timing piston sleeve is essentially the 'heart' at the center of the pump and requires a rebuild and calibration.... Not serviceable from the outside unfortunately.

Also when i took my resistance readings, the thick lead with most of the wires running to the GE actuator and timing control sleeve had a definite burnt smell to it, could smell it on my hand/fingers after holding it. The engine speed sensors are on a separate leads, and smelt fine for lack of a better term.

All I can hope for now is that it was just the pump, and not some other expensive component that went taking the pump electrics with it.

Nick. (minus his favorite Pajero... For Now!)




Sent from somewhere in a galaxy far, far away...

[Nick Gibson]

Deleted - Duplicated post.

[Nick Gibson]

Ok some more feedback.

From the tests it seems the GE actuator and control sleeve are buggered, the small difference in ohm in the others sensors I put down to my multimeter being out slightly.

Both of these are deep inside the pump it seems, nothing more I can do

Sent from somewhere in a galaxy far, far away...

Nick, I doubt that the increase in resistance on these components will lead to the severe electrical fault you described in the first post. Even if these component go "short-circuit" the way the ECU reads them should not see this result.

Did you turn on the ignition with all wiring unplugged from the pump? Maybe try it. I am pretty sure your fault will still be there! (Have a fire extinguisher ready though! )

Johan

Hi Johan

I have instructed the Workshop to have an auto electrician look at the vehicles wiring thoroughly after they have removed the pump to make sure that if there is a fault it won't blow the pump when it is fitted again. They will also do a diagnostics test on the car to see if any error codes pop uo again, I just hope the ECU is Ok...

[Nick Gibson]

More feedback.

Pump was removed and sent to Randburg diesel & turbo late last week. Awaiting final detailed report, but from chatting briefly to Duane it seem like something fried the pump from the car side - dead short or loose earth? He also said my vane pump is damaged, something I find hard to believe after only 7 months of driving, especially after I fitted an extra 5 Micron fuel filter and water trap.

Cost to repair pump is R25073.16 ... Ouch.

I now still need to trace the root of the electrical issue on the car, have been quoted R2500 by an auto-electrical specialist to find the cause, and only then will I receive a quote to repair the failed component/item... All I can hope fro now is that it is s simple chassis wiring issue and not the ECU or worse.



Holding thumbs.

Nick

[G3PajV6]

Hi Nick

Any update on this , would like to know?

[Nick Gibson]

Car is still with the auto electrical specialist, they have been through all the wiring for the last 4 days with a fine tooth comb and can't find anything wrong, be it a short or loose earth or chaffed wiring.

They have also pulled the ecu to check it and there is a diode blown(not sure how the know), they recon my alternator is overcharging and damaged my pump and ecu. I don't agree as I have a madman monitoring the voltage and then alarm didn't go off for over voltage, it also stores the max values of all the parameters monitored which can checked. Or I jump started my car incorrectly causing a voltage spike, which I haven't done since owning it.

Still in the dark as to what went wrong, but an ecu overhaul is pricy if that has been damaged as well.

Sent from somewhere in a galaxy far, far away...

[4ePikanini]

I wonder if a simple 4m40 pump can be fitted to the Di-D?

[Nick Gibson]

I am sure it could fit mechanically and connect to injectors and get the engine running, with a mechanical accelerator pedal and cable from a petrol 3.5 v6 Gen 3 fitted.

Unfortunately I think alot of the features of the car would not work as the car has TC and skid control which interfaces with the electronic throttle control, and, and, and... Also the gearbox ECU communicates with engine ECU and thus injector pump... Ai, seems very complicated.

I am going past the auto electrical guys on the way home from work to see what they have achieved, and ruled out as the possible culprit(s).

Once I know the problem is and total cost of repair, I will decide on a way forward.

Sent from somewhere in a galaxy far, far away...

[andrew.ashton]

OK,

I think that some of the answers you are being given are "stories" because the people just don't know, or have not got to the bottom of this:

"..from chatting briefly to Duane it seem like something fried the pump from the car side - dead short or loose earth?"
Firstly you can't fry the pump - it is a mechanical pump - you can only fry the sensors. BUT if the voltage was correct, how can you fry a sensor? And the Madman says the was correct.
And I somehow doubt that either side of any of the sensors is earthed, other than through the ECU itself. Similarly how could you fry an actuator if there was no overvoltage?

"He also said my vane pump is damaged, something I find hard to believe after only 7 months of driving, especially after I fitted an extra 5 Micron fuel filter and water trap."
In what way is the pump damaged? And just asking - isn't the Zexel VRZ a piston pump - not a vane pump?

"...they recon my alternator is overcharging and damaged my pump and ecu"
Really? how did they find this out, since you cant even start the engine? Did they actually take the alternator out and test it? Have they shown you these test results?

Sorry, I am sceptical of both these reports.

[Nick Gibson]

Hi Andrew, I should have been a bit more clear on my posts.

Duane actually said the electronics were fried, thus the pump doesn't work or communicate with the test bench. It has on board ROM memory which they can check for error codes on the test bench computer- They have no communication with it at all.
You are correct in stating the Pajero's VRZ pump is a distributor piston type pump, but it also has a vane pump on the suction side to deliver fuel via suction from the tank to the timer control piston inside the pump, he says that vane pump is buggered. We are also waiting for a detailed report from them on the exact damages to each component, they are not really forthcoming with information.

I went to auto electrical specialists yesterday afternoon and chatted to them, and they seem very knowledgeable and helpful. They also removed the alternator and tested it on the test bench after I spoke to them last, and it came back spot on- so they agreed with me it wasn't that causing the voltage spike. They had also taken the whole wiring loom apart from the pump connector to the ecu and fuse box and checked each wire, all perfect.

They then took the ecu out and saw a blown diode, we have having it sent away to ecu technologies for analysis to see what it wrong and if it is repairable. Matt from ecu technologies said he has had the same issue as I am experiencing before, and apparently something sized inside the pump blowing the electronic components and in turn the ecu.

All in all, they all seem to agree with my original theory that something blew on the pump and in doing so damaged the ecu. Will see next week.

Sent from somewhere in a galaxy far, far away...