Ok went and bought all the fluids, jacked up the car and removed the bash plates for access to everything.
I cannot get the nut off the gearbox. How much force do you use before breaking it?
Any other tips/advice please?
If you are sure it is the correct nut 
, these are things I do to stubborn nuts:
, these are things I do to stubborn nuts:
- spray with a penetrating fluid, eg Q20, and repeat every day.
- put reasonably pressure on the nut (with a ring spanner) and then hit the nut with a hammer (and copper driver?), while applying the pressure. The shock load often loosens the nut. You will probably need someone to help you with this.
- heat it with a small LPG torch. beware of wires, hoses etc.
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
Hi Guys,
Just a small tip , use a Metrinch socket if possible as they are not prone to stripping as I found most ring flats does tend to strip nuts as the annular gap
between ring and nut is bigger . I found this especially on Gedore flats.
regards
Just a small tip , use a Metrinch socket if possible as they are not prone to stripping as I found most ring flats does tend to strip nuts as the annular gap
between ring and nut is bigger . I found this especially on Gedore flats.
regards
Does anyone have a picture of where the nut is situated on both gearbox & transfer case? If you manage to loosen them, how do you refill them and how do you know if the level is correct?
Affiliate Member
This is the transmission for a Gen2 Manual
Fill at the filler plug until it starts running out at that plug. Car needs to be level.
I'm trying to find an image and/or schematic of the gearbox.......
Fill at the filler plug until it starts running out at that plug. Car needs to be level.
I'm trying to find an image and/or schematic of the gearbox.......
This weekends job. Will take some photos as I go along.
Johann Bredell
Site Admin
When I shift between 1st and 2nd and between 2nd and 3rdn the change pretty stiff... or put it this way, very unrefined, rather than stiff. I was wondering if a change of fluids will help this?
Simon Bloomer
I experienced an amazing improvement in shift quality/refinement when I changed the oil in my Patrol's gearbox. I used Castrol BOT 130 M synthetic and it was like fitting a new 'box: the slight grating going into reverse or between 3rd and 4th simply vanished.
Gerrit Loubser 
2003 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 VX TD
2003 Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2 DiD LWB A/T Gone & missed
1999 Nissan Patrol 4.5E GRX M/T: Gone & missed
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 VX 4.5 EFI A/T: SOLD
2003 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 VX TD
2003 Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2 DiD LWB A/T Gone & missed
1999 Nissan Patrol 4.5E GRX M/T: Gone & missed
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 VX 4.5 EFI A/T: SOLD
My Gen2 transmission (on a gen3 Di-D) had the standard 1st - 2nd 'hesiation' shift when I first fitted it.
I changed to Caltex EasyShift and the 'hesitation' is gone.
A good oil therefore seems to do it.
I changed to Caltex EasyShift and the 'hesitation' is gone.
A good oil therefore seems to do it.
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
Site Admin
OK I think I'm going to have a bash at changing the fluids, perhaps next weekend. Do I just ask for Caltex Easyshift? Is there another option?
Any gotcha's I need to know about or advice as to how best to go about it?
Any gotcha's I need to know about or advice as to how best to go about it?
Simon Bloomer