Hello All
Sadly I realise I have to replace my clutch. My 2001 DiD has almost 220,000km on the clock so I really can't complain about the longevity of the clutch, but I am starting to worry about the reliability. It's had a shudder since I acquired the car but the shudder has intensified and turned into a bit of a grind when I pull away.
Mitsubishi Midrand quoted between R20k and R22k to do the clutch. I've seen some other figures of R15k floating about on the forums. Can anyone give some suggestions as to where I might be able to get it done at a reasonable price (R15k is a lot better than R22k!). This is a bank breaking exercise, I'd just like to break the bank a little less.
Thanks
-Thomas
Last edited by tsblack on Mon Jun 14, 2010 3:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Affiliate Member
Firstly welcome to the forum.
Secondly, a clutch can be had for much cheaper if you use the solid mass flywheel and clutch as found on the 2.8 diesel models. It is a direct bolt-on.
The smoothness lost is negligible.
Secondly, a clutch can be had for much cheaper if you use the solid mass flywheel and clutch as found on the 2.8 diesel models. It is a direct bolt-on.
The smoothness lost is negligible.
Hi 4ePikanini
Thanks very much. I'm a bit of a lurker, read all about your rebuild, well done!
I've been looking at the 2.8TD replacement and it's something I'm willing to try. At this stage I'm pretty sure it will probably be smoother than my current failing dual mass flywheel. I've read so much about issues with these flywheels I'm more than happy to go with the solid option if it's a consistent performer.
But once again, any suggestions as to who I can go to in Gauteng? This obviously isn't a dealer job and I'd really appreciate a referral for a mechanic I can contact.
In your experience is it best to use Mitsubishi oem clutch and solid flywheel if you do this conversion? Does anyone else make a good (possibly better) aftermarket clutch?
Appreciate the advice.
-Thomas
Thanks very much. I'm a bit of a lurker, read all about your rebuild, well done!
I've been looking at the 2.8TD replacement and it's something I'm willing to try. At this stage I'm pretty sure it will probably be smoother than my current failing dual mass flywheel. I've read so much about issues with these flywheels I'm more than happy to go with the solid option if it's a consistent performer.
But once again, any suggestions as to who I can go to in Gauteng? This obviously isn't a dealer job and I'd really appreciate a referral for a mechanic I can contact.
In your experience is it best to use Mitsubishi oem clutch and solid flywheel if you do this conversion? Does anyone else make a good (possibly better) aftermarket clutch?
Appreciate the advice.
-Thomas
Affiliate Member
I would stick with LUK, SACHS or OEM.
AFAIK LUK is the supplier for mitsu anyway .
I would not skimp on the thrust bearing though. Get an original from Mitsu. They are cheap enough.
While you have access I would ask the workshop to check the condition of the main crank seal and gearbox input shaft seal. Replace if in any doubt.
Lastly I would ask the workshop to clean and regrease the clutch fork and maybe even service the clutch cylinder.
Doing thses things with the clutch is considerably easier and cheaper to do while the clutch is being done.
Ask my dad - 4ePajero - he has a 2.8 solid mass flywheel and clutch paired to his gen3 DiD, gen2 transmission & gen1 body. I have driven it and it is as smooth as any diesel I have driven. In fact if I remember correctly there is more vibration through the shifter in my brother's polo 1.9 TDi than my father's pajero.
I can't comment on a workshop I'm afraid.
AFAIK LUK is the supplier for mitsu anyway .
I would not skimp on the thrust bearing though. Get an original from Mitsu. They are cheap enough.
While you have access I would ask the workshop to check the condition of the main crank seal and gearbox input shaft seal. Replace if in any doubt.
Lastly I would ask the workshop to clean and regrease the clutch fork and maybe even service the clutch cylinder.
Doing thses things with the clutch is considerably easier and cheaper to do while the clutch is being done.
Ask my dad - 4ePajero - he has a 2.8 solid mass flywheel and clutch paired to his gen3 DiD, gen2 transmission & gen1 body. I have driven it and it is as smooth as any diesel I have driven. In fact if I remember correctly there is more vibration through the shifter in my brother's polo 1.9 TDi than my father's pajero.
I can't comment on a workshop I'm afraid.
Hi 4ePikanini
Thanks for all this info, that really helps.
I read all about your dad's conversion, fantastic stuff.
I've being wondering your dad experienced any more vibration with the solid flywheel. Nice to get confirmation that it's still pretty smooth. Definitely think I'm going this route then.
Now just for the workshop...
Thanks again.
-Thomas
Thanks for all this info, that really helps.
I read all about your dad's conversion, fantastic stuff.
I've being wondering your dad experienced any more vibration with the solid flywheel. Nice to get confirmation that it's still pretty smooth. Definitely think I'm going this route then.
Now just for the workshop...
Thanks again.
-Thomas
TSBlack
I am sitting at about the same mileage as you and my clutch has long shuddered along, but has never slipped at all, so I am still sticking to it for now. I will be folowing this thread with interest as it is sure to be an expense item for me as well in the future. I am not convinced personally about the 2.8 solid clutch, why would Mitsu fit the dual mass if there was not a good reason for it in the first place? Anyway, I know it has been done succesfully so I would follow your decision and progress with interest, please keep us updated.
Have you checked your gearbox mountings? Mine was replaced some time ago as they were shot and that helped a lot in reducing some shudder that I experienced at the time.
CATS
I am sitting at about the same mileage as you and my clutch has long shuddered along, but has never slipped at all, so I am still sticking to it for now. I will be folowing this thread with interest as it is sure to be an expense item for me as well in the future. I am not convinced personally about the 2.8 solid clutch, why would Mitsu fit the dual mass if there was not a good reason for it in the first place? Anyway, I know it has been done succesfully so I would follow your decision and progress with interest, please keep us updated.
Have you checked your gearbox mountings? Mine was replaced some time ago as they were shot and that helped a lot in reducing some shudder that I experienced at the time.
CATS
2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS (Gen4) - Casper (Starting to grow on me)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
From the horse's mouth! 
My solid flywheel Di-D is soft on the pedal, has taken abuse on a few off road excursions, and has never displayed any sign of a judder.
My Di-D's clutch is as 'friendly' as a Toyota Tazz, VW Polo etc.
The 'bite' is smooth without any jerks / shudders.
My personal opinion is that the dual mass flywheel is to ensure smooth take-up of the power, but it can (and obviously does) cause more problems than the solid flywheel.
More that can go wrong, IHMO.
Look here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQ
My solid flywheel Di-D is soft on the pedal, has taken abuse on a few off road excursions, and has never displayed any sign of a judder.
My Di-D's clutch is as 'friendly' as a Toyota Tazz, VW Polo etc.
The 'bite' is smooth without any jerks / shudders.
My personal opinion is that the dual mass flywheel is to ensure smooth take-up of the power, but it can (and obviously does) cause more problems than the solid flywheel.
More that can go wrong, IHMO.
Look here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQ
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
Hi Cats
Mine has progressed beyond a shudder. When I pull away, especially when the vehicle is warm it feels like there is a bit of grinding. It actually feels like this coming more from the rear of the vehicle but I can only really attribute this to some of the shudder being carried through to the rear diff. It also seems to be aggravated when I'm pulling away with the front wheels turned. I've concluded that it only really acts up under high torque conditions, especially when warm. I don't really notice anything when in low range. I asked Mitsubishi to check it out a while back and they said it was the clutch, but I should drive it as long as I can as it's an expensive item to replace.
I hear what you're saying wrt the engineering, but at the same time I know that my clutch shudders, your clutch shudders and there are numerous other reports of the same thing on the net. With dual mass flywheels a shudder is the last thing you should be feeling, so there's clearly an issue with the design. If a solid flywheel has less of a shudder than a failing dual mass flywheel (which seems to happen often and Mitsubishi say you should just ignore it), then in my book it's probably a better choice.
My father-in-law had his clutch changed a while back and went for the real thing. It really is lovely - it's soft and smooth and doesn't feel like a diesel at all. Hopefully it doesn't start shuddering anytime soon, but it seems that you can never be sure with these flywheels. My vehicle is also almost 10 years old with 200,000+ km on the clock, premature drive train wear is not something I'm too fussed about!
Makes sense to me, I'm going to give it a try. Will keep this thread updated as things unfold.
-Thomas
Mine has progressed beyond a shudder. When I pull away, especially when the vehicle is warm it feels like there is a bit of grinding. It actually feels like this coming more from the rear of the vehicle but I can only really attribute this to some of the shudder being carried through to the rear diff. It also seems to be aggravated when I'm pulling away with the front wheels turned. I've concluded that it only really acts up under high torque conditions, especially when warm. I don't really notice anything when in low range. I asked Mitsubishi to check it out a while back and they said it was the clutch, but I should drive it as long as I can as it's an expensive item to replace.
I hear what you're saying wrt the engineering, but at the same time I know that my clutch shudders, your clutch shudders and there are numerous other reports of the same thing on the net. With dual mass flywheels a shudder is the last thing you should be feeling, so there's clearly an issue with the design. If a solid flywheel has less of a shudder than a failing dual mass flywheel (which seems to happen often and Mitsubishi say you should just ignore it), then in my book it's probably a better choice.
My father-in-law had his clutch changed a while back and went for the real thing. It really is lovely - it's soft and smooth and doesn't feel like a diesel at all. Hopefully it doesn't start shuddering anytime soon, but it seems that you can never be sure with these flywheels. My vehicle is also almost 10 years old with 200,000+ km on the clock, premature drive train wear is not something I'm too fussed about!
Makes sense to me, I'm going to give it a try. Will keep this thread updated as things unfold.
-Thomas
Hi 4e
Thanks for the stickers and the chat. It seems that you and your Dad have lots of experience on the subject above. Since I have had my Paj, I have had a stiff spot in the middle of the clutch depressing distance and have been following all trends at to clutch replacements. The option of a new dual mass is out of the question.
Is there a difference in the overall dimensions of the pressure plate and clutch plate from the 2.8Td, 3.2Di-D and the 3.5. I have been told that the same pressure plate fits the 2.8 and the 3.5.
Will I be albe to fit this to the Di-D fly wheel> I have been thinking of converting the dual mass to a solid fly wheel as I can have the fly wheel balanced again afterwards.
Will this be a sloution, instead of purchasing a 2.8 fly wheel
Your comments will be appreciated
Thanks
Thanks for the stickers and the chat. It seems that you and your Dad have lots of experience on the subject above. Since I have had my Paj, I have had a stiff spot in the middle of the clutch depressing distance and have been following all trends at to clutch replacements. The option of a new dual mass is out of the question.
Is there a difference in the overall dimensions of the pressure plate and clutch plate from the 2.8Td, 3.2Di-D and the 3.5. I have been told that the same pressure plate fits the 2.8 and the 3.5.
Will I be albe to fit this to the Di-D fly wheel> I have been thinking of converting the dual mass to a solid fly wheel as I can have the fly wheel balanced again afterwards.
Will this be a sloution, instead of purchasing a 2.8 fly wheel
Your comments will be appreciated
Thanks
Affiliate Member
the 2.8 diesel and 3.2 diesel have directly interchangeable ( Because the engine blocka are essentially the same )
- flywheel
- clutch
- pressure plate
if they are replaced all together.
smiddi is not convinced and you can read his post here - https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... 6568#p6568
The decision lies with you.
I'm not sure with regards to the 3.5 but maybe the old 3.0 components will fit as the blocks might be the same. Once again the decision lies with you.
- flywheel
- clutch
- pressure plate
if they are replaced all together.
smiddi is not convinced and you can read his post here - https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... 6568#p6568
The decision lies with you.
I'm not sure with regards to the 3.5 but maybe the old 3.0 components will fit as the blocks might be the same. Once again the decision lies with you.