Gerrit. I went investigating as the wiring thing was buggering me and I got another comment on the 4x4community so I found my error
Silly me. I knew I must have given the wrong info somewhere because my wires aren't getting hot ( not even at the connectors ) . I went and traced the invoice ( 18 months ago from online incentive program ) and found that the wire I bought was rated at 2500 Watts. ( and probably have a bit extra for safety )
So
2500W/240V = 10.4A
I doubled up the wire so that should give me just more than 20 Amps which is enough for the spots ( 220W/12V = 18.3A ).
Am I correct in my reasoning here?
Sounds good 
.
.Gerrit Loubser 
2003 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 VX TD
2003 Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2 DiD LWB A/T Gone & missed
1999 Nissan Patrol 4.5E GRX M/T: Gone & missed
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 VX 4.5 EFI A/T: SOLD
2003 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 VX TD
2003 Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2 DiD LWB A/T Gone & missed
1999 Nissan Patrol 4.5E GRX M/T: Gone & missed
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 VX 4.5 EFI A/T: SOLD
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Thanks Gerrit.
Nice to know I have lots of people looking out for me.
Nice to know I have lots of people looking out for me.
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got a picture taken with another camera
this is the wiring on an iso measuring tape ( millimeters )
I used both wires twisted together for the positive feed to the spots.
this is the wiring on an iso measuring tape ( millimeters )
I used both wires twisted together for the positive feed to the spots.
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had a close look at the cambelt tensioner and decided to order a new one
LLMD166227 SPRING,VALVE TIMING BELT 34.27+vat
LLMD104578 TENSIONER,VALVE TIMING BE 364.29+vat
LLMD166227 SPRING,VALVE TIMING BELT 34.27+vat
LLMD104578 TENSIONER,VALVE TIMING BE 364.29+vat
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Spent last night troubleshooting why my reverse lights weren't working.
Found the switch underneath the gearbox in 5 minutes as 45 minutes in the FSM yielded no results. grounded the two wires and the lights worked so the switch has to be the culprit.
I removed the switch with great difficulty
- my recommendation is to remove the console in the cabin to gain access to the big rubber grommet that feeds the wires from the tranny and transfer case switches. You can then unplug the harnass connector under the radio and push the rubber grommet through.
The connector plug is just left of the date stamp in the picture below
You then have enough space to get a 19 ring in there to the reverse switch.
There is not enough space for the open end of the wrench so you have to use the ring with the wrench pointing to the front of the vehicle away from the switch. The only way to use the ring is to cut the two wires and feed them through as it won't go over the connector. - I'm just using lugs to connect them again.
( Ideally a 19mm brake line spanner bent in an S-shape would have been great - or a socket with a handle on it so you can feed the wires through the centre of it - but I can't go grinding my spanner 10o'clock at night now, can I?)
I then had the switch out and the halfhearted attempt at fixing it by the previous guy was a laugh ( I wish my camera was working ) but I have experience on fixing this switch ( fixed one on the transfer case not so long ago )
I chipped away at the plastic on top of the switch to expose some extra wire. Clean good with engine degreaser and then brush with soldering flux. After testing the switch and making sure it worked the way it should ( it just creates continuity between the 2 wires coming out of it - can't remember if it's at rest position or pressed in position ) I then soldered on some wires to extend the 2 wires that came out of it. I then used a strong epoxy like builder to cover my solders and strenthen that part of the switch. Also put some shrink sleeve right against the switch on the wires for some extra protection. - I'm very happe with it.
tested it again to make sure I didn't make a boo boo and all is well.
Fitted it and my reverse light don't work
I then spotted the washer I forgot to put in so I'll get back onto it tonight as it was a bit late at that stage and centre console was snoring on the back seat
Found the switch underneath the gearbox in 5 minutes as 45 minutes in the FSM yielded no results. grounded the two wires and the lights worked so the switch has to be the culprit.
I removed the switch with great difficulty
- my recommendation is to remove the console in the cabin to gain access to the big rubber grommet that feeds the wires from the tranny and transfer case switches. You can then unplug the harnass connector under the radio and push the rubber grommet through.
The connector plug is just left of the date stamp in the picture below
You then have enough space to get a 19 ring in there to the reverse switch.
There is not enough space for the open end of the wrench so you have to use the ring with the wrench pointing to the front of the vehicle away from the switch. The only way to use the ring is to cut the two wires and feed them through as it won't go over the connector. - I'm just using lugs to connect them again.
( Ideally a 19mm brake line spanner bent in an S-shape would have been great - or a socket with a handle on it so you can feed the wires through the centre of it - but I can't go grinding my spanner 10o'clock at night now, can I?)
I then had the switch out and the halfhearted attempt at fixing it by the previous guy was a laugh ( I wish my camera was working ) but I have experience on fixing this switch ( fixed one on the transfer case not so long ago )
I chipped away at the plastic on top of the switch to expose some extra wire. Clean good with engine degreaser and then brush with soldering flux. After testing the switch and making sure it worked the way it should ( it just creates continuity between the 2 wires coming out of it - can't remember if it's at rest position or pressed in position ) I then soldered on some wires to extend the 2 wires that came out of it. I then used a strong epoxy like builder to cover my solders and strenthen that part of the switch. Also put some shrink sleeve right against the switch on the wires for some extra protection. - I'm very happe with it.
tested it again to make sure I didn't make a boo boo and all is well.
Fitted it and my reverse light don't work
I then spotted the washer I forgot to put in so I'll get back onto it tonight as it was a bit late at that stage and centre console was snoring on the back seat
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I'm getting the engine back tomorrow or next week. I would like to start getting an idea of things to look out for.
Things I'm wondering about are
* Should the oil pump be primed?
* Should I spray some lubricant down the spark plug holes for the first start?
* Should the fuel rail and pipes be primed?
* and then the always debatable starting procedure
Things I'm wondering about are
* Should the oil pump be primed?
* Should I spray some lubricant down the spark plug holes for the first start?
* Should the fuel rail and pipes be primed?
* and then the always debatable starting procedure
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Went to have a look at the nearly-done motor. Spoke to the workshop and they said they oil it properly and rotate the oil pump until oil is flowing out of all the passages so that made me sleep better 
Sorry about the bad quality cell pics
Sorry about the bad quality cell pics
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I also saw the lifters and they are the new type with the big hole - which explains why they were quiet when I got the car regardless of the negligence by the previous owner.
They look like this one
They look like this one