Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

Davidvan wrote:Hi,
To carry on hijacking this thread, Andrew also look out for the little known faulty temp gauge which is caused by dry solder joints on the small green pc board behind the instrument cluster.

Thanks David - I did know about that - pretty sure my gauge is moving correctly. The only two times I have seen it happen were under higher than normal load.

My suspicion is that as the cooling system degrades (lower air flow due to fins bent, grass etc. and lower coolant flow due to gelling / dirt build up). However it still copes with normal operation. Once the load exceeds the (degraded) system's cooling ability, coolant temperature heat will build up rapidly - e.g. towing, long uphill at speed, heavy sand with long climbs and low road speed ...

Davidvan wrote: ..had radiator cleaned and rodded at Silverton.

I know about rodding the rad - but when I spoke to Morne at Silverton Wynberg he said they would not rod because the OEM rad tubes are too thin. They only chemical clean. That has left me in a quandry because all mentions on the Aussie forum for instance recommend rodding.

Hi Andrew,

Silverton Centurion said they rodded mine, and I specifically asked for them to have it rodded. Maybe it was just chemical cleaned, but it still looks brand new, whatever they did it really looked like an excellent job, got all the seeds out that snuck through and bugs, some mud and sure alot of other stuff out

Here is the link to the gauge issue plus other possible causes, it is possible that you could experience these issues.

https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... uge#p29018


https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... uge#p26111

https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/view ... uge#p25426

Davidvan wrote:Hi Andrew,

Silverton Centurion said they rodded mine, and I specifically asked for them to have it rodded. Maybe it was just chemical cleaned, but it still looks brand new, whatever they did it really looked like an excellent job, got all the seeds out that snuck through and bugs, some mud and sure alot of other stuff out

And the cost?

Hi GT,

This was some time ago, think it was about R700.

Cheers

David

Nick Gibson wrote:On another note I am not happy as my paj is running a lot hotter then it did before the bumper was fitted, I think it has to do with there not being any cooling slots/vents in the number plate area.

Hi Just DI-D it,

Sorry, we have really hijacked your thread. But maybe these are things that you need to watch out for as well.

Hi Nick,

If you read the ARB marketing splurb they talk about having introduced a split pan design a couple of years ago and specifically comment that it provides "improved air flow". The gap between the upper and lower "pans" is above the winch slot - i.e. about where your number plate is on the Burnco bar.

It wouldn't surprise me if ARB needed to introduce that slot because of heat problems.

Of course, on my Paj, that's also exactly where the number plate is too, blocking most of the gap (duh). And even with a gaping hole where a winch would fit I am also not happy with temperature under load.

I need to take another look at an OEM Paj front end, but I am wondering if part of the problem is that the bottom of the 3rd party bars leaves a big hole from the bottom back of the bar to the front of the intercooler bash plate - so maybe fresh air entering what's left of the grille is pushed under the car rather that through the condenser / tranny cooler / radiator.

If that is the case then some kind of skirt between the bottom of the 3rd party bar and the front of the intercooler bash plate could help.

Any thoughts?

Davidvan wrote:Hi,

On a different note how much does the madman cost?

I don't know what they go for now, I bought mine 2 years ago, it also depends on what sensors you buy with it and who fits it. I recon you could get one for about R2k and some change, I fitted mine myself so I saved there. Look at landy online and speak to brian cotton, there is a online parts cataogue for a 6G74 pajero motor I helped him put together(we didn't know all the proper sump plug sizes) with all the fittings needed bar the EGT probe. Search for EGT setup on the forum for my build photos..


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Thanks Nick,

On the nudge-m bar just below the 3 lower holes is a piece of plate which faces forwards, I was of the opinion it was for strengthening that part of the bull bar, but it may have a function of forcing air through the lower 3 holes, almost like scooping it in.

I will give them a shout and see what the purpose of that is , if it is to force air flow or for structural strength at that point.

I haven't really noticed it on other bars, but I may be wrong. Will also ask for more detail on the washer bottle which is pertinent to this post.

Cheers

David

Here are two pics (again apologise for terrible cel-phone quality) to show how my bottle was moved to accommodate the bumper as per the OP question posed in his first post. I will be looking for a replacement bottle to mount elsewhere as mine is blocking too much airflow to my radiators for my liking.

andrew.ashton wrote:
Hi Nick,

If you read the ARB marketing splurb they talk about having introduced a split pan design a couple of years ago and specifically comment that it provides "improved air flow". The gap between the upper and lower "pans" is above the winch slot - i.e. about where your number plate is on the Burnco bar.

It wouldn't surprise me if ARB needed to introduce that slot because of heat problems.

Of course, on my Paj, that's also exactly where the number plate is too, blocking most of the gap (duh). And even with a gaping hole where a winch would fit I am also not happy with temperature under load.

I need to take another look at an OEM Paj front end, but I am wondering if part of the problem is that the bottom of the 3rd party bars leaves a big hole from the bottom back of the bar to the front of the intercooler bash plate - so maybe fresh air entering what's left of the grille is pushed under the car rather that through the condenser / tranny cooler / radiator.

If that is the case then some kind of skirt between the bottom of the 3rd party bar and the front of the intercooler bash plate could help.

Any thoughts?

Hi Andrew

Here are some more terrible quality cel-phone pics I took of the 5 slots Burnco cut into my bumper, they are unfortunately at a slight angle to the road and not square to the airflow, but I am sure they will work better once my washer bottle is moved and I clean my radiators out too.

I am also not happy with the interface between my bash-plate and my bumper, it looks unfinished. I am going to make a new bash-plate which sorts this out at a later stage.

A few pics of my water washer bottle, it does appear that it is a VW/audi bottle, will get more details tomorrow from nudgem. The bracket is not very difficult using existing bolt points on top x 2 with a slide in type of holding mechanism onto the bottle.

The motor is on the side of the bottle and works well, the pipes all fit with no extensions required, just cut to length,only gripe is it is a little on the small side, just fill it up more often, takes about 2 litres, so OK with that.

Cheers

David