Here is a writeup on anti-sway bar disconnects: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/SwayBar.shtml. I believe that guy drives a Toyota, but the principle is the same.
Here is a writeup on the torsion bars adjustment: http://www.4x4wire.com/mitsubishi/tech/ ... rsion_bar/. This is an easy job that takes perhaps a couple of hours the first time you do it.
I have 33x12.50R15's under my blister fender (1998 series 2.5), hoping to go to 35x12.50R15's next time I need new tires. Fitting them is not really a big deal, I have 40mm of suspension lift, although body lift would be preferable. I also need to work on the mudguards in front a bit to fit the 35's and probably shave a bit of plastic off the bumper. I will also nibble slightly off the front fenders, behind the tire, when I fit the fender flares.
Hope this helps.
Thanks arnijr,
Tell me,
I read that a body lift is better than suspension lift or was it other-way round,
I know I'm asking a gazillion questions, but what is the difference between the 2, and how would that effect my carrying capacity on the roof.
Tell me,
I read that a body lift is better than suspension lift or was it other-way round,
I know I'm asking a gazillion questions, but what is the difference between the 2, and how would that effect my carrying capacity on the roof.
Last edited by Mcnoogle on Wed May 19, 2010 2:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Affiliate Member
Body lift
-no extra diff clearance
-better approach and departure angles
-slightly higher COG ( centre of gravity )
-easier and cheaper to do
Suspension lift
-extra diff clearance
-better approach and departure angles
-much higher COG
-more expensive to do
One is not better than the other. One will just be more suited than the other to your needs.
-no extra diff clearance
-better approach and departure angles
-slightly higher COG ( centre of gravity )
-easier and cheaper to do
Suspension lift
-extra diff clearance
-better approach and departure angles
-much higher COG
-more expensive to do
One is not better than the other. One will just be more suited than the other to your needs.
My needs - or rather wants, are to be able to go just about anywhere possible without having to switch to a Cruza.4ePikanini wrote:Body lift
One is not better than the other. One will just be more suited than the other to your needs.
So, If I fit 33's, Ill anyway increase my diff clearance,
My biggest concern is COG, and load capacity on the roof.
4ePikanini really answered this already. The big difference between the body lift and suspension lift is the center of gravity, suspension lift lifts the frame, engine, gearbox, transfer case and body higher, body lift only lifts the body higher. I plan on doing a body lift at some point and removing the suspension lift. Another advantage with the body lift is that it creates more space for the fuel tank, either to lift it so it's more out of the way or to fit a long range tank.
I'm not in complete agreement with the body lift necessarily being easier and cheaper, I think a small suspension lift, say 40-50mm is can probably be easier than a body lift and around the same price. That is putting blocks under the coils and adjusting the torsion bars. This type of suspension lift will rob you of some articulation however.
A body lift of around 40-60mm is also easy and cheap, just need the blocks for the body mounting points and longer bolts. You will have to jack the whole body up to fit them. As I understand it brake lines and steering will tolerate 50 or even 60mm lift without problems, just watch the brake lines while you jack up the body. There is built in slack somewhere, a coil of brake lines that can be utilized. The problems you'll have to solve are:
1. Radiator probably needs to be moved down, since the engine and fan will move down compared to the body. Radiator is mounted to the body.
2. Hole in floor for transfer case lever needs to be enlarged backwards, since the floor will hit the lever higher up and stop it getting into 2H.
3. Bumpers are mounted to frame and will have to be moved up to preserve the look of the vehicle. This means modifying the bumper mounts.
My reasons for wanting to switch from the suspension lift to body lift are that eventually I want to go to 38" tires. In the meanwhile I want to do a couple of modifications that require the body lift or that I would have to redo after the body lift. These are fitting of a receiver tow hitch, front and rear and enlargement of the fuel tank. In the rear I want the tow hitch receiver to exit through the middle of the bumper, where the hitch is now mounted, so that's dependent on the bumper height relative to frame. In the front I want the hitch to exit through the middle hole in the row of holes under the number plate so same thing there. The receivers front and rear are meant for both bicycle carriers, on rough roads they are better kept on the front since the Pajero is already long enough in the rear
Also they are eventually meant for a winch, that can then be used either front or rear, depending on what kind of trouble one gets into.
In my case I also want to move the whole body backwards by a few cm to create more room at the back of the front wheel well and then move the rear axle backwards to create more space at the front of the rear wheel well. These are the trouble points for really big tires, the doors are not easy to modify. This will mean welding new body mounts to the frame further back than the current ones and they will then be made higher so blocks will not be needed. This is much more involved but ends up stronger and people have fitted up to 44" tires to blister fenders this way.
I'm not in complete agreement with the body lift necessarily being easier and cheaper, I think a small suspension lift, say 40-50mm is can probably be easier than a body lift and around the same price. That is putting blocks under the coils and adjusting the torsion bars. This type of suspension lift will rob you of some articulation however.
A body lift of around 40-60mm is also easy and cheap, just need the blocks for the body mounting points and longer bolts. You will have to jack the whole body up to fit them. As I understand it brake lines and steering will tolerate 50 or even 60mm lift without problems, just watch the brake lines while you jack up the body. There is built in slack somewhere, a coil of brake lines that can be utilized. The problems you'll have to solve are:
1. Radiator probably needs to be moved down, since the engine and fan will move down compared to the body. Radiator is mounted to the body.
2. Hole in floor for transfer case lever needs to be enlarged backwards, since the floor will hit the lever higher up and stop it getting into 2H.
3. Bumpers are mounted to frame and will have to be moved up to preserve the look of the vehicle. This means modifying the bumper mounts.
My reasons for wanting to switch from the suspension lift to body lift are that eventually I want to go to 38" tires. In the meanwhile I want to do a couple of modifications that require the body lift or that I would have to redo after the body lift. These are fitting of a receiver tow hitch, front and rear and enlargement of the fuel tank. In the rear I want the tow hitch receiver to exit through the middle of the bumper, where the hitch is now mounted, so that's dependent on the bumper height relative to frame. In the front I want the hitch to exit through the middle hole in the row of holes under the number plate so same thing there. The receivers front and rear are meant for both bicycle carriers, on rough roads they are better kept on the front since the Pajero is already long enough in the rear
Also they are eventually meant for a winch, that can then be used either front or rear, depending on what kind of trouble one gets into.In my case I also want to move the whole body backwards by a few cm to create more room at the back of the front wheel well and then move the rear axle backwards to create more space at the front of the rear wheel well. These are the trouble points for really big tires, the doors are not easy to modify. This will mean welding new body mounts to the frame further back than the current ones and they will then be made higher so blocks will not be needed. This is much more involved but ends up stronger and people have fitted up to 44" tires to blister fenders this way.
Wow, Thats a lot of work, I'll be sure to touch sides with you more often, so I can learn how to do the body hightening.
Good luck
Well, it's the "go anywhere" thing 
In my case I want to be able to go at least many places, in winter. Up here that means snow and snow means big tires for float. To truly go almost anywhere, people are fitting 52" tires. The SAR squad where I volunteer has two "go almost anywhere" trucks, one a Land Cruiser and the other a Patrol. They have 44" tires, the suspension has been totally replaced and so on and on. I know that the Land Cruiser was bought new and then modified at a cost slightly higher than the purchase cost of the vehicle.
Mine are long term plans though. Currently I'm working on fitting fender flares that support up to 35x12.50R15 and front fog lights. Before I get to 38" tires these will have to be replaced. Next up is a nudge bar and more lights, both spots on the front and worklights on the sides and rear, along with the control box and switches for that. Somewhere in there are boost, voltage and egt gauges, as well as a less restrictive exhaust.
One just has to be careful that the hobby of modifying the car doesn't take over from the hobby of actually using it
In my case I want to be able to go at least many places, in winter. Up here that means snow and snow means big tires for float. To truly go almost anywhere, people are fitting 52" tires. The SAR squad where I volunteer has two "go almost anywhere" trucks, one a Land Cruiser and the other a Patrol. They have 44" tires, the suspension has been totally replaced and so on and on. I know that the Land Cruiser was bought new and then modified at a cost slightly higher than the purchase cost of the vehicle.Mine are long term plans though. Currently I'm working on fitting fender flares that support up to 35x12.50R15 and front fog lights. Before I get to 38" tires these will have to be replaced. Next up is a nudge bar and more lights, both spots on the front and worklights on the sides and rear, along with the control box and switches for that. Somewhere in there are boost, voltage and egt gauges, as well as a less restrictive exhaust.
One just has to be careful that the hobby of modifying the car doesn't take over from the hobby of actually using it
Very True.arnijr wrote:
One just has to be careful that the hobby of modifying the car doesn't take over from the hobby of actually using it
I think I'll give the 52s a skip though.
I'm a little confused, are you in Iceland, or Eastern Cape,
and if both, when are you where?
I'm only in Iceland, does it say Eastern Cape anywhere? I'll fix that if that's my mistake.
Never seen a Pajero on 52's. Seen them on 44's but never bigger. The 52's are mostly for guys who drive (too) heavy American trucks.
Never seen a Pajero on 52's. Seen them on 44's but never bigger. The 52's are mostly for guys who drive (too) heavy American trucks.