Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

Hi Guys

Just joined the forum.

I took my 2000 gen3 swb manual 3.2 D-ID (215 000Kms) in to Mitsubishi dealers as gears weren't feeling good and looked like I was leaking small bit of fluid.

Short version, transmission fluid wasn't great, but no shavings so no damage. Leak is from the transfer case actuator. Been told that to fix the leak, the transfer case needs to be split to disconnect actuator. The actuator seal is gone and apparently it is not a part that is held by Mitsu and so the whole actuator needs to be replaced. Was quoted +-R10k for the job. R5k for new actuator and the rest is labour and new fluid. I understand the need to split transfer case to disengage actuator (Been loooking on the net and found similar stories with some toyotas etc, there are some guys who have managed to get actuator out without splitting T/case, but Im not practical and dont have much knowledge on cars and don't have tools past a hammer and screwdrivers).

Anyone had this happen before? This problem on the pajero doesnt seem to be documented much on the net. My actuator is 100% working order, just leaking. I find it hard to justify replacing the actuator just because of an oil seal. Dealer said its not the oring between actuator and T/case as there is oil all over the actuator, he said if it was the oring, the oil will leak out there and not be all over the actuator.

My question is, if I get the actuator out and open it up and am able to source a suitable seal, can I just replace and sit actuator back in or is there calibration or misalignment that I need to worry about? I am going to have to pay the labour on getting T/case split anyway. I don't want to try a quick fix and replace the seal and find it leaking again because of misalignment etc, then have to pay the labour again.

I just got them to top all fluids until I decide what to do. If anyone has advice, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Not something that I have stumbled on as a common occurrence. There are unfotunately not too many manuals around as SA only imported them in limited numbers untill around 2004 or there abouts. Thereafter it was only auto.

CATS

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Hi Jamgrey

I have attached the Gen 3 Mitsubishi Service Manual for the Manual transmission. Might help you somewhat. The manual for the transfer case is too large to up-load @ 12.5Mb in size. I have taken a screen shot of the actuator, it has a separate seal that is replaceable - part no 29 - 'O' ring.

Thanks Cats and Nick.

I am taking it in for a second opinion tomorrow morning. Not a paj expert but I am just looking for confirmation of where the leak is coming from. Dealer said its not the o-ring between actuator and T/Case, but would like confirmation.

Where were you able to get the manual for the T/Case Nick? I have tried looking but I keep getting lost with all the different variations. I was convinced I had a 2000 model as this was the date that the car was first sold, but looking at the manual you put up and my vin #, I see it is a 2001? How is this possible?

James

jamgrey wrote:Thanks Cats and Nick.

I am taking it in for a second opinion tomorrow morning. Not a paj expert but I am just looking for confirmation of where the leak is coming from. Dealer said its not the o-ring between actuator and T/Case, but would like confirmation.

Where were you able to get the manual for the T/Case Nick? I have tried looking but I keep getting lost with all the different variations. I was convinced I had a 2000 model as this was the date that the car was first sold, but looking at the manual you put up and my vin #, I see it is a 2001? How is this possible?

James

Hi jamgrey.

I found it in the American 6g74 montero service manual, it is part 23B. For some reason that isn't included in the 4m41 service manual of 2001. The transfer case should be very similar though, if not identical to yours.

There was a change over between models in 2000, you had the gen 2.5 and gen 3 pajero in that year. My previous pajero was a 2000 model, but when asking for parts I said it was a 2001 to ease confusion for the counter staff.

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10k? I kept getting water into my transfercase but no leaks so checked the breathers, moved the breathers and same problem. So I loosened the actuator and saw the o-ring was pinched... No you do not have to split the case to pull that thing out. What I did was pull it out as far as it could and had someone shift the transfer leaver up and down while I was pulling on the actuator till I managed to get it to run off the gear and the rod stayed behind. It was a mission to figure out but after pinching the second o-ring it was easy to get out. The o-ring is a 25x1.0mm and buy a few spare. It is not optimal and wouldn't recommend doing it because the risk of breaking something is great but if you are not hardhanded and have ALOT of patience and strong neck muscles it is easy. I should remember when I fiddle to document it haha.... Seriously 10k? Madness

So Spikv

When you run the shaft out of the actuator does the gears inside not fall around and come loose.
Is it easy to get the shaft back into the actuator ?
My actuator seem to be sticking as I cannot engage 4wd. there is 12v present and I can manually engage 4wd.

Thanks