The TJM shocks and TBs was fitted and then set to level the Pajero.
Fitted R8.8k and what a difference! I like it already, plan to check it out this weekend in Hennops Pride!
Simon
A little late maybe but heres my 2c
On my Gen 3 I can only comment on the IronMan, mine will be in 2 years come November (say about 50 000Kms to date). The coils are great even though I added another 8 mm (or was that now 10mm can't remember) spacer ring (that Kai made me( in the rear just for that extra bit of lift. The road handling is almost platkar like, many guys with merc and audis etc don't have the guts to follow met through the one high speed turn on the highway I do almost daily (driver not vehicle problem most likely). The shocks however have always been a bit noisy, I guess when they come up for replacement I will fit Monroes in their place.
A little late maybe but heres my 2c
On my Gen 3 I can only comment on the IronMan, mine will be in 2 years come November (say about 50 000Kms to date). The coils are great even though I added another 8 mm (or was that now 10mm can't remember) spacer ring (that Kai made me( in the rear just for that extra bit of lift. The road handling is almost platkar like, many guys with merc and audis etc don't have the guts to follow met through the one high speed turn on the highway I do almost daily (driver not vehicle problem most likely). The shocks however have always been a bit noisy, I guess when they come up for replacement I will fit Monroes in their place.
Site Admin
Thanks Bennie
What is it about these aftermarket kits that actually create all the alleged lift? Is it the springs that are largely responsible, or the shocks?
What is it about these aftermarket kits that actually create all the alleged lift? Is it the springs that are largely responsible, or the shocks?
Simon Bloomer
The lift is from the springs. Depending on the suspension configuration, the lift can be achieved by making the springs longer or stiffer.
On the Gen 3 the aftermarket springs from OME/Ironman are made from thicker steel wire than the originals and are therefore stiffer, so the ride height is higher. Unfortunately this also means that flex is lost...
On the Gen 3 the aftermarket springs from OME/Ironman are made from thicker steel wire than the originals and are therefore stiffer, so the ride height is higher. Unfortunately this also means that flex is lost...
Gerrit Loubser 
2003 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 VX TD
2003 Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2 DiD LWB A/T Gone & missed
1999 Nissan Patrol 4.5E GRX M/T: Gone & missed
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 VX 4.5 EFI A/T: SOLD
2003 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 VX TD
2003 Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2 DiD LWB A/T Gone & missed
1999 Nissan Patrol 4.5E GRX M/T: Gone & missed
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 VX 4.5 EFI A/T: SOLD
Stiffer is not always that bad as these vans are a bit on the heavy and low side to start off withGerrit Loubser wrote: Unfortunately this also means that flex is lost...
True, but the ability to keep all wheels on the ground when negotiating cross-axle type obstacles (i.e. flex) is good for stability and for maintaining forward motion.
Gerrit Loubser
2003 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 VX TD
2003 Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2 DiD LWB A/T Gone & missed
1999 Nissan Patrol 4.5E GRX M/T: Gone & missed
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 VX 4.5 EFI A/T: SOLD
2003 Toyota Land Cruiser 100 VX TD
2003 Mitsubishi Pajero 3.2 DiD LWB A/T Gone & missed
1999 Nissan Patrol 4.5E GRX M/T: Gone & missed
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser 80 VX 4.5 EFI A/T: SOLD
Ja but that is why mine came standard with a moffie knoppieGerrit Loubser wrote:True, but the ability to keep all wheels on the ground when negotiating cross-axle type obstacles (i.e. flex) is good for stability and for maintaining forward motion.
Hi All,
I have recently purchased a 1996 LWB 3.5V6 auto transmission - His name is Bismark, and he has 246,000 K's under his belt.
I have put second hand Cooper discoverer STTs on, and recently did my 1st EVER off road experience (sand-duning in Atlantis)
Bismark did extremely well, the only place It could not tackle was going back up the wall of death. and one or two other routes out of the same pit.
I have started getting Bismark 'bush ready' as I feel its still far from ready.
I am sitting with a ride height problem as well, I have just approved the fitment of Gabriel Kubu's on the front, as the current shocks (yellow, and from Australia - but definitely not OME's)
left side mount bush needs to be replaced, only problem is it cant, hence the new shocks in the front.
What I want to know is this.
1) Currently, Bismark's front end is quite a bit lower than the back, how do I increase the ride height in the front without messing up the articulation on the front wheels.
2) I find the articulation could definitely be better on the front anyway, - how do I improve that.
3) Living (also) in Somerset West - I (having read quite a few forums, and magazines, in my effort to learn a bit) need to know where, and what kind, of bearings should I buy.
It looks like I might have to replace front bearings soon anyway, but also would look at traveling with 2 spare sets.
4) Bismark has no sump-guard, the front bit (which sits at an angle, was obviously removed when the winch was put in, but the main sump-guard was never replaced.
Anyone know where I could pick up a secondhand one, or who to speak to about aftermarket plates? A new sump-guard from Mitsubishi costs R1300, so I'm looking for cheaper.
I have recently purchased a 1996 LWB 3.5V6 auto transmission - His name is Bismark, and he has 246,000 K's under his belt.
I have put second hand Cooper discoverer STTs on, and recently did my 1st EVER off road experience (sand-duning in Atlantis)
Bismark did extremely well, the only place It could not tackle was going back up the wall of death. and one or two other routes out of the same pit.
I have started getting Bismark 'bush ready' as I feel its still far from ready.
I am sitting with a ride height problem as well, I have just approved the fitment of Gabriel Kubu's on the front, as the current shocks (yellow, and from Australia - but definitely not OME's)
left side mount bush needs to be replaced, only problem is it cant, hence the new shocks in the front.
What I want to know is this.
1) Currently, Bismark's front end is quite a bit lower than the back, how do I increase the ride height in the front without messing up the articulation on the front wheels.
2) I find the articulation could definitely be better on the front anyway, - how do I improve that.
3) Living (also) in Somerset West - I (having read quite a few forums, and magazines, in my effort to learn a bit) need to know where, and what kind, of bearings should I buy.
It looks like I might have to replace front bearings soon anyway, but also would look at traveling with 2 spare sets.
4) Bismark has no sump-guard, the front bit (which sits at an angle, was obviously removed when the winch was put in, but the main sump-guard was never replaced.
Anyone know where I could pick up a secondhand one, or who to speak to about aftermarket plates? A new sump-guard from Mitsubishi costs R1300, so I'm looking for cheaper.
Affiliate Member
Hi Mcnoogle and welcome to POCSA forum
You have asked a few heavy questions and some of them have no easy answer but lets try
As for the bearings I would get mitsu bearings and unless you are planning some heavy over landing and expect big trouble I would not bother with the second set, you are not driving a land rover.
It might be a better option to look at getting a decent sump guard seeing as you have not got one. The original one is not the best around and do a lot more for the owners feelings than it does for the vehicle.
Good luck
Henk
You have asked a few heavy questions and some of them have no easy answer but lets try
If the shock is in good nick you can get poly bushes from autozone that can be modified to fit at a fraction of the cost of new shocks, have a look around.left side mount bush needs to be replaced, only problem is it cant, hence the new shocks in the front.
It is a relatively simple job to tweak the front torsion bars to increase height but do not go too far from factory spec as it would affect the downward travel of the wheel. A set of disconnectors on the front anti sway bar would improve the flex but it is something that you would have to manufacture your self.1) Currently, Bismark's front end is quite a bit lower than the back, how do I increase the ride height in the front without messing up the articulation on the front wheels.
2) I find the articulation could definitely be better on the front anyway, - how do I improve that.
As for the bearings I would get mitsu bearings and unless you are planning some heavy over landing and expect big trouble I would not bother with the second set, you are not driving a land rover.
It might be a better option to look at getting a decent sump guard seeing as you have not got one. The original one is not the best around and do a lot more for the owners feelings than it does for the vehicle.
Good luck
Henk
Henk Bannink
Some people are wise, some people are otherwise
Some people are wise, some people are otherwise
Hi Henk,
Thanks for the Welcome,
The names Ned, by the way.
Too late for the shocks, got my Paj back today, and I must say, it feels 100 times better, so it looks like they were due for replacement anyway.
I have no idea what you are talking about when you talk about manufacturing disconnectors for the anti-sway / roll bars.
I'm a pretty handy guy, and can do just about anything, (except for fixing cars) I am mechanically inclined, but its just one thing I never took the time to learn,
anyway, theres still time.
I have been reading a bit, and the overall picture of what I'd like to do is this.
1) Put a locker on the back, preferably a pajero locker, if I can find one.
2) Upgrade to 33.12.5s (I know it seems a bit on the large side, but Its what I want. (not naming my Paj S.A.S Bismark for nothing)
3) Increase Height of torsion bars on the front & (now, manufacture disconnectors)
Is there a post anywhere where I can read up on making disconnectors / fast disconnectors (Or is Simon still working on that)
Manufactured sumpguard is no problem, I need to pad at least 3 points on the undercarriage with Steel, and Im not bothered if its not original, anyway, I think 2 or 3 ml plating would be better.
Also,
With Gas shocks all round, whats the max weight I'd be able to add to my roof.
I'm looking at an end picture of Roofrack that can hold roof-top tent on front half, an 2nd spare tyre, and 4 gerry cans on the back half, and 2 number 7 gas bottles, slung over the back door, from the roofrax, on a framework, an Awning on 1 side. Then also an extra 20Kg, for Table, Solar Panels x 2, Axe, Spade, etc.
Would I need stiffer coils on the back also.
Basically, I'm looking at creating a machine of note, as I wanna go Way way off road.
Thanks for the Welcome,
The names Ned, by the way.
Too late for the shocks, got my Paj back today, and I must say, it feels 100 times better, so it looks like they were due for replacement anyway.
I have no idea what you are talking about when you talk about manufacturing disconnectors for the anti-sway / roll bars.
I'm a pretty handy guy, and can do just about anything, (except for fixing cars) I am mechanically inclined, but its just one thing I never took the time to learn,
anyway, theres still time.
I have been reading a bit, and the overall picture of what I'd like to do is this.
1) Put a locker on the back, preferably a pajero locker, if I can find one.
2) Upgrade to 33.12.5s (I know it seems a bit on the large side, but Its what I want. (not naming my Paj S.A.S Bismark for nothing)
3) Increase Height of torsion bars on the front & (now, manufacture disconnectors)
Is there a post anywhere where I can read up on making disconnectors / fast disconnectors (Or is Simon still working on that)
Manufactured sumpguard is no problem, I need to pad at least 3 points on the undercarriage with Steel, and Im not bothered if its not original, anyway, I think 2 or 3 ml plating would be better.
Also,
With Gas shocks all round, whats the max weight I'd be able to add to my roof.
I'm looking at an end picture of Roofrack that can hold roof-top tent on front half, an 2nd spare tyre, and 4 gerry cans on the back half, and 2 number 7 gas bottles, slung over the back door, from the roofrax, on a framework, an Awning on 1 side. Then also an extra 20Kg, for Table, Solar Panels x 2, Axe, Spade, etc.
Would I need stiffer coils on the back also.
Basically, I'm looking at creating a machine of note, as I wanna go Way way off road.
Last edited by Mcnoogle on Wed May 19, 2010 2:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.