I think most of you are right. I will take the car to Freek & Mits Brooklyn for independent checks. I do love the Pajero, and bought one because to me there are none other comfortable drivable 4x4 out there.
Details of the car:
2001 model with 135000 km now on. Partial service history as the previous previous (I'm the 4th owner) owner did skip 3 oil changes.
The previous owner had the system flushed with Wynn's. Apparently it is a complete system flush which include the injectors.
I experience turbo lag in 2nd & 3rd gear if the revs are below 2000/2500 rpm, but other than that the car pulls strong! No excessive smoke, nothing plus it gives me 9km/l on mixed driving.
I need to replace/fix (according to SAC) the following
- clutch kit
- Injectors, seal kit
- front and rear discs and pads
- rear handbrake shoes
- tappet cover gasket
- 2x lower control arms
- replace power steering o-ring
Will book it in with Freek ASAP.
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I agree, I would get some second opnion as the car was obviously not in such a disasterous state when you bought it. or else you would not have bought it.
Focus on the Roadworthy items, such as the brakes. Also there is nothing wrong with non-original Discs, like ATE, or the pads. (The disc just cost half the price and the pads a third or the price).
With regards to the Clutch, did the clutch slip or smell, or shift the gears poorly, when you drove it for the test drive or to Steves? If not and you aren't going on a long trip soon, which requires heavy sand driving, then give yourself some time to breath, do it in a couple of months and enjoy the vehicle. The Clutch is a Heavy duty complicated business, which does cost a lot, but if you bought a Merc or French car, a clutch would have cost the same, and they are relatively small simple items on those cars.(Even Toyotas cost a lot to fix, nobody is immune)
Check the service history (I took my camera along and took screen shots of the history as they were unable to print it out).
Change all the Lubrication oils in the Gearbox, transfer case, difs etc and the Diesel Filter for peace of mind.
The items to fear is the Diesel pump and the Brake booster unit.
Focus on the Roadworthy items, such as the brakes. Also there is nothing wrong with non-original Discs, like ATE, or the pads. (The disc just cost half the price and the pads a third or the price).
With regards to the Clutch, did the clutch slip or smell, or shift the gears poorly, when you drove it for the test drive or to Steves? If not and you aren't going on a long trip soon, which requires heavy sand driving, then give yourself some time to breath, do it in a couple of months and enjoy the vehicle. The Clutch is a Heavy duty complicated business, which does cost a lot, but if you bought a Merc or French car, a clutch would have cost the same, and they are relatively small simple items on those cars.(Even Toyotas cost a lot to fix, nobody is immune)
Check the service history (I took my camera along and took screen shots of the history as they were unable to print it out).
Change all the Lubrication oils in the Gearbox, transfer case, difs etc and the Diesel Filter for peace of mind.
The items to fear is the Diesel pump and the Brake booster unit.
Sorry for the late feedback. I took the car to Mitspro Wednesday, and Freek snr took us for a spin. He confirmed the clutch is stiff, but no slipping & shuddering yet so not life threatening for now. He recommends that I change the clutch and at same time do the fly wheel. But this is where it gets good, Mitspro fits a aftermarket flywheel! Much cheaper and more reliable than the dual mass original unit.
The discs can still be skimmed, and I need to replace the pads.
I am now looking at +- R20k instead of R48k!!
Big relief!!
O ja, and Mitspro has a new client!!
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The discs can still be skimmed, and I need to replace the pads.
I am now looking at +- R20k instead of R48k!!
Big relief!!
O ja, and Mitspro has a new client!!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
CATS,CATS wrote: Injectors needs to be replaced or serviced every now and again on diesel engines. I would say at least every 150000km. It could be that yours are not in spec anymore and thus needs replacement. Not easy to diagnose unless tested or heavy smoking if they are really stuffed.
1. Who did you entrust with your injector checkout / replacement on 100 000km?
2. Would you use them again?
3. Did you get them to remove (or did you remove), then test, then decide whether to replace or just clean based on the test results?
4. Ditto re the injector pump?
The reason I ask is that I am on 232 500km (2002) and have owned since about 70 000km and have never had injectors tested / cleaned / replaced and I am beginning to worry about overfuelling ...
Apologies if I am hijacking the thread.
I would say that it is good preventive maintenance to have the injectors tested every say 100 000 km, but injectors only need to be replaced when they need to be replaced. 
Some last a few thousand kms, others many hundreds of thousands of kms.
I sold my Isuzu KB 280 DT on 360 000 km with the original injectors.
Maybe I was lucky, maybe it helped looking after them (responsible driving style, fuel filter changes and ...... 2SO
)
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Some last a few thousand kms, others many hundreds of thousands of kms.
I sold my Isuzu KB 280 DT on 360 000 km with the original injectors.
Maybe I was lucky, maybe it helped looking after them (responsible driving style, fuel filter changes and ...... 2SO
)Sent by 4e, from my iPad using Forum Runner
+1andrew.ashton wrote:
CATS,
1. Who did you entrust with your injector checkout / replacement on 100 000km?
2. Would you use them again?
3. Did you get them to remove (or did you remove), then test, then decide whether to replace or just clean based on the test results?
4. Ditto re the injector pump?
Apologies if I am hijacking the thread.
I would like to temporarily hijack the thread as well.
On the service schedule it says only to check injectors if there is smoke. Mine does not smoke... Should I still test?
I am a firm believer in checking injectors every 100000km, at the most 150000km. As 4E said some last a long time but a lot depends on diesel quality etc. My personal opinion is rather spend R6000 every 150000km on new injectors than R50000 on a second hand engine. Diesels, the 3.2 Did anyway, don't require a lot of fussing. A petrol needs spark plugs replaced every now and again to keep the spark right , a diesel needs the injectors checked to make sure they don't over fuel. Get it wrong and it will burn a hole in the piston. They might never give problems but one bad diesel tank, mixed with paraffin or water contaminated can ruin the injectors. That is my believe in any case.
I have had the injectors and pump tested by Alan Black in Gauteng and they are one of the few agents countrywide that has the equipment to test the Did pump.
The agents here in Gauteng also use them and both times I had it tested, the work was done through the agents, but outsourced to Alan Black. I am no expert so they had to take out and test, I only delivered the vehicle. The last time took 2 days but it can be one in one day I am sure.
So far I am happy with them and they will be doing the next test as well.
CATS
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I have had the injectors and pump tested by Alan Black in Gauteng and they are one of the few agents countrywide that has the equipment to test the Did pump.
The agents here in Gauteng also use them and both times I had it tested, the work was done through the agents, but outsourced to Alan Black. I am no expert so they had to take out and test, I only delivered the vehicle. The last time took 2 days but it can be one in one day I am sure.
So far I am happy with them and they will be doing the next test as well.
CATS
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2009 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS (Gen4) - Casper (Starting to grow on me)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
2001 Pajero 3.2 DiD Lwb GLS Manual (Gen3) - Snoopy (SOLD but not forgotten)
2008 Pajero 3.2 DiDc Lwb GLS Auto (Gen4) - Silvester (SOLD)
The Pajero is going to Mitspro next week for new clutch & fly wheel (Freek recommends to replace both items), injectors, brake pads, etc.
AND then...
It's time to "pimp" the car.
I want to fit:- 265 75 16" Cooper Discoverer S/T Maxx
- Suspension (what do you guys recommend? I lean towards EFS from Safari. I don't want a harsh ride due to heavy duty coils/suspension setup)
- skid plates front, middle and rear (are all three necessary?)
- rock sliders
And that is all I have $$$ for.
Will have to SAVE for the other "important" items such as bull bar, etc. 
O ja, and I need to take her out to a 4x4 trail to "test"
(test = the driver, not the vehicle)
I have EFS - it gives the lift and has not given me any problems (except I can see a little chunking taking place on the tyres). But it is quite harsh. The ideal is to get the lift without sacrificing the great ride that the Mitsubishi engineers designed - check out what other people have and also this thread: Gen3 Lift group buy?Ryperd wrote: AND then...
- Suspension (what do you guys recommend? I lean towards EFS from Safari. I don't want a harsh ride due to heavy duty coils/suspension setup)